
It was Jade Ruzzo’s newest collection that really tuned me into the term modern heirloom. Of course I’d heard those words before, but they didn’t click until I experienced Ruzzo’s Gloria collection (named for the designer’s daughter) during its debut at the Couture show in Las Vegas earlier this year.
These one-of-a-kind jewels were designed to be future heirlooms, defying current market trends and crafted to last forever (or for several forevers). “A tribute to family heirlooms and legacy, Gloria is meant to become part of your story,” the brand says about the collection. “Honoring the deep sentiment and permanence that a piece of jewelry can hold, this collection is made to last—not just in craftsmanship, but in significance.”
As a member of the jewelry industry, I long to own heirloom jewels that could be passed down to my girls, and maybe to their kids after that. There are plenty of designers creating special pieces with just this concept in mind, and I think it brings the conversation about jewelry as an investment—not just financially but also in one’s legacy—to the forefront of the sales pitch.
While any jewel can in theory become an heirloom, there’s something specific to pieces like those in the Jade Ruzzo collection that say it distinctively without words—but what is it, exactly? Is it the jewels’ inherent timelessness, ensuring that no matter what trends or styles might define the coming decades, they’ll still be worn time and time again? Is it a price point, a matter of fine materials, handcraftsmanship?
Probably all of the above. Still, every modern heirloom jewel possesses a certain something that’s hard to put into words—a je ne sais quois. You just know it when you see it.
I spoke to several jewelry designers who have recently bowed new collections described as modern heirlooms, to get their take on precisely how this can be defined. I feel it’s important to pay attention specifically to the jewels designed with generational sharing in mind—those truly forever pieces, not ones that will be reset, redesigned, or otherwise altered when they’re passed down. These are, to me, jewels that endure era after era, regardless of trends, prices, or gem preferences.
Of course, no one can be sure what the next generation will do. But from what I can see, jewels like these are created so beautifully that anyone fortunate enough to receive one wouldn’t even consider changing them.

“From the beginning, I have described Garland Collection’s fine jewelry as modern heirlooms,” says brand founder Nicole Mann Novick. “While most of our pieces take inspiration from the past, I have always intentionally designed with the idea that even our most distinctive pieces must be classic and timeless. Jewelry should be personal and tell your story, while also being treasured wearable memories that can be passed down for generations.”

“I think people think of heirloom jewelry as something from their grandmother that is outdated,” says Mejia designer Elise Thompson. “The jewelry I create is an updated version of that that is modern and something you will want to wear every day now, because it’s fresh and fun, but also you can pass it down later because the materials are precious. And I think the design will transcend time.”

“Our new collection, Infinite, delves into this with an exploration of gemstone pieces that champion traditional craftsmanship with a modern sensibility,” says Tatiana Ikasovic, designer for Fade to Black Studio, a family-owned business whose Australian opals are all cut by Ikasovic’s father, Mario, a gem cutter for more than 40 years. “We believe jewelry can be a modern heirloom as it is a powerful symbol of time and continuity—it’s our link between the past, present, and future.”

“The idea of creating something that feels timeless but distinctly modern is at the heart of modern heirlooms,” says Alice Basteguian, cofounder and designer of Alice Pierre Jewelry. “With everything happening in the world today, we want to wear jewelry we can truly live in—jewelry that isn’t reserved for special occasions but for our everyday stories. When done right, the concept of modern heirlooms captures all of that; bridging the past and present.”
Top: Rings from Jade Ruzzo’s Gloria collection, in 18k yellow gold with diamonds, prices on request
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