Chunky bezels. Colored diamonds. Yellow gold that stretches as far as the eye can see. These are just a few of the on-trend jewels that retailers say they’re loving at JCK, where their mood was best described as light, celebratory, and ready to buy.
From the moment the doors opened at Luxury last Wednesday and the crowds poured in for the JCK show on Friday, “booths are selling,” said Joe Mares, manager of Mark Diamond’s Jewelers in Albuquerque, N.M. “Vendors are doing business, which is good for the industry.”
His fellow retailers agree: This year’s JCK feels big, bold, and lavish in terms of both the pieces on display and the ways designers are approaching their craft. Mixed cuts, scattered stones, extravagant link chains, and personalization are among the trends retailers are picking up for fall, the holiday season, and beyond.
Daring to be different is what consumers are looking for from brands and jewelers, said consultant, gemologist, and NYC Jewelry Week editor Nicholas Hyatt, whose gospel on trendspotting fired up his audience at JCK Talks.
As examples, Hyatt pointed to luxurious stone-set-in-stone looks at Novel Collection, such as its natural orange pear-shape diamond set on an opal. He also highlighted Novel’s abundance of colored diamonds, including a jaw-dropping 2.07 ct. fancy orangey-red natural diamond.
Hyatt gave five stars to Misfit Diamonds for “doubling down” on unique cuts and salt-and-pepper diamonds and providing retailers with fresh product for consumers, especially in a time when everything is shared on social media.
Retailers also gathered for the vibrantly colored diamonds and gemstones at exhibitors such as Hajibay & Co., reading more like a candy store stocked with plump emeralds and fancy green diamonds plus lots and lots of yellow gold.
“Bold yellow jewelry has been coming back for a while now, but it’s particularly strong this year,” says Danielle Sanchez, chief brand officer of family-owned Diamonds Direct Fine Jewelers in St. Petersburg, Fla.
Another notable trend Sanchez says she’s seeing: the men’s brooch, which she describes as a great accessory for a classic suit and as a wedding alternative. “We love the idea of a groom opting for an elaborate brooch in lieu of a boutonniere,” she says.
Retailers say they appreciate the statement-style pieces that have been shown at Luxury and JCK. Having these designs to layer among dainty chains, rings, or bracelets gives customers a chance to create exciting new looks, says Julie Rybacki, head “blingologist” for Bling Jewelers in Schofield, Wis. “Color is coming back,” Rybacki says, and customers at her store are excited to add into their jewelry wardrobes.
Looks such as herringbone, pear-shape diamonds, and rose gold are proving their staying power at JCK 2023, says Charles Ebenstreit of Elgin Jewellers in Port Elgin, Ontario. “What’s old is new,” Ebenstreit says.
Seeing everything on view at JCK makes retailers excited about what they can do in-store, says Anne Russell, executive vice president of Hamilton Jewelers, a New Jersey–based chain.
“We try to look for updates on the classics, which perform very well for us,” Russell says. “We like to find new styles that can be easily incorporated into new or existing clients’ jewelry essentials. We also are looking to buy gemstones for our fall/holiday 2023 collections. Mixed cuts like emerald and oval and yellow gold jewelry are still very strong for our markets as well.”
That feeling of discovery and excitement is what keeps her coming back to Luxury and JCK year after year, Russell adds: “We get the opportunity to meet with partners, develop new collections, discuss growth opportunities, see what is new and different, and connect with our peers in the industry.”
Top: Jellybean necklace with 183.94 cts. t.w. mixed cabochons in 18k yellow gold, $60,000; Rahaminov
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