Naming her new demi-fine jewelry brand Hysteria, Jackie Ansell wants to reclaim the mythology around that now-defunct medical term and turn what was a derogatory judgment into symbols of elegance and quiet defiance.
Hysteria as a pathological condition diagnosed in women may date back to ancient Egypt, says Ansell (a history lover), but it is still relevant when we hear women described as bossy or “too much.”
That became something Ansell wanted to explore through her jewelry and its imagery. She started working on the brand last year and officially debuted its first collection, the Awakening, and a company website in January. Later this month, she is exhibiting Hysteria at the Brand Assembly show in New York City.
As a jewelry brand, Hysteria uses the idea of Victorian-era constrictions on women, such as tightly bound corsets, in its designs. Its hero piece, the Shackle of Ophelia necklace, holds a functional, antique-inspired padlock.
The word hysteria comes from the Greek word for uterus, and that became the launching point for the shape of Hysteria’s charm holders, says Ansell. The brand’s cameos—created by female artists in Bali—nod to the unrealistic expectations placed on women of the Victoria era to look perfect and stay silent.
“I want to reclaim hysteria from a shameful diagnosis to a celebration of the things that make up the very best part of our lives,” Ansell says. “The padlock piece is a symbol of constraint. It’s weighty. It also represents chastity belts and the history of women being locked away.”
In founding her jewelry line, the former tech executive was also inspired by modern-day experiences she and other women, especially her sister, have had.
“My sister was diagnosed with an illness that frequently gets minimized as female ‘hysteria.’ It’s a word with such a rich and dark history,” Ansell says. “I would go to doctor’s appointments with her where she got poked and prodded while they questioned her. It was like she wasn’t believed.
“That word hysteria, as old fashioned as it seemed, was still pervasive today,” Ansell says. “I felt like I needed to say something. The jewelry became my way of reclaiming it, but doing so in a playful and approachable way. It’s that duality of the darker undertone of history but also subversive. If you know, you know.”
Ansell hails from the Midwest—she was born and raised in Cincinnati—but moved to the San Francisco area when she worked for technology companies. She is now based on the other coast, in Brooklyn.
“Jewelry has always been a side hobby and love of mine. I remember getting dropped off at the bead store during middle school,” Ansell says. “During COVID, I started hand-making jewelry out of my apartment and giving it to friends.”
Her jewelry is mostly made in the United States, with manufacturing partners in Rhode Island. Ansell says it took a year to find manufacturers that could produce the quality and look she wanted.
She is interested in working in gold eventually, but Hysteria’s initial pieces are made with sterling silver and less costly materials, because Ansell wants them to be maximalist.
“Larger pieces are a big part of my brand. It was that ‘too much’ aspect that I wanted to explore. I didn’t want to limit myself on that front,” she says.
While the Awakening centers on Victorian motifs—and there is still much more to consider from that time period—Ansell says future collections will explore other eras’ treatment of women, particularly when it comes to alleged “hysteria.” She is drawn to art nouveau as well, so the future is bright.
“Everyone has a different connection to the word hysteria, so it’s been fun to share the word and the concept. It’s a brand that connects with women across all age groups,” she says.
Top: Jewelry from the new Brooklyn-based brand Hysteria (photos courtesy of Hysteria)
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