Hancocks Spotlights a Mid-Century Piece by a Jeweler’s Jeweler

By Annie Davidson Watson | March 31, 2026

In the world of high jewelry, some of the most compelling stories belong to master artisans who served the big-name houses behind the scenes. Case in point: Charles Holl. He was a technical wizard trusted by the likes of Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels to execute highly complex commissions, though his name doesn’t have the immediate consumer recognition that the brands do.

Hancocks London brings Holl’s expertise to the fore in April, selecting an 18k gold necklace he crafted in the 1950s as its Jewel of the Month. Adorned with chain fringe and over a carat’s worth of diamonds, Holl’s Draperie necklace is a textbook example of mid-century design’s obsession with haute couture, specifically making solid 18k yellow gold behave like silk or lamé.

Holl met this challenge by constructing the piece of articulated quatrefoil-shape panels, which allows the gold to drape with a supple movement (like a scarf or kerchief) around the neck. The panels feature alternating pleated and spherical motifs.

A crescent of round brilliant-cut diamonds, claw-set in platinum and accented with rope-twist gold detailing, surrounds the necklace’s central knot. Chain fringes cascade beneath the knot, to complete the illusion of an article of clothing.

“There is a distinct softness to this design that feels almost textile in nature,” said Amy Burton, creative director of Hancocks London, in a statement. “Holl demonstrates an exceptional ability to challenge the very nature of gold, transforming a material known for its solidity into something remarkably fluid and fabric-like.

“The result is a jewel of femininity, each articulated link moving with the body like silk, creating a wearable masterpiece that carries all the refinement and artistry of couture.”

For those looking for Place Vendôme artistry without the branded premium, the Draperie necklace is available at Hancocks’ St. James’ Street gallery for £45,000, approximately $59,500.

(Photo courtesy of Hancocks London)

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