Antique & Estate Jewelry

Hancocks, Grima Unveil 5-Piece Collection Built Around French-Cut Diamonds

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Two of Britain’s most distinctive jewelry houses have formalized a friendship into a collaboration. Grima for Hancocks, a five-piece series three years in the making, recently debuted at Hancocks London’s St. James’s Street townhouse—each piece carrying dual makers’ marks for both houses, all prices available on request.

The collaboration is personal before it is professional. Amy Burton, creative director at Hancocks, and Francesca Grima, creative director of Grima, are best friends; Burton gave a wedding speech in which Grima served as her best woman. Their families’ connection goes back even further: The Grima family exhibited at Hancocks during summer visits to London from Switzerland, a relationship that established itself decades before either woman took on her current role. This series was sparked three years ago when Grima shared a set of gouache paintings with Burton. “I was struck by them and how much I wanted to see them become a reality,” Burton said in a statement.

The five pieces were worked with a single craftsman whose father had worked with Andrew Grima decades earlier—a detail both designers found meaningful—and designed without restriction. Francesca Grima had full creative freedom, working by hand with pencil and ruler rather than CAD/CAM.

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Grima for Hancocks convertible earrings in platinum with 8.19 cts. t.w. French-cut diamonds

The design references are characteristically Grima: A pair of 8.19 ct. French-cut diamond convertible day-to-night earrings draws from an Oscar Niemeyer building in Paris whose metal ceiling fractures light in ways that French cuts similarly replicate. A 5.07 ct. antique pear-shape diamond ring in brushed 18k yellow gold takes its castellated setting from the Trellick Tower viewed at night—the haphazardly placed 2.14 cts. of surrounding French-cut diamonds evoking illuminated windows scattered across a brutalist facade. An 11.15 ct. cognac old-cut oval diamond ring dispenses with conventional claws entirely, using removable French-cut diamond components to hold the stone securely while maintaining a clean architectural silhouette.

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Grima for Hancocks ring in 18k yellow brushed gold with a 5.07 ct. antique pear diamond

A dress set—double clips, cufflinks, and three studs in French-cut diamonds and brushed yellow gold—began with cowboy collar tips and evolved into something designed to be shared between two people. A pair of Asscher-cut diamond and Colombian emerald earrings, using bullet-cut diamonds recontextualized as elongated baton finials, completes the series.

The gemstones were sourced personally by Guy Burton, managing director of Hancocks. “We are unapologetically selective, as is Francesca,” Burton said in a statement. “The alignment worked perfectly; none of us are interested in compromise.”

Grima for Hancocks is on view at Hancocks London, 62 St. James’s Street, London.

(Photos courtesy of Hancocks London)

Follow me on Instagram: @anniedavidsonwatson

By: Annie Davidson Watson

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