Hancocks Spotlights Historic Cartier Design Ahead of V&A Exhibit

By Annie Davidson Watson | April 07, 2025

In anticipation of the Victoria and Albert (V&A) Museum’s soon-to-open Cartier exhibition, London jeweler Hancocks has unveiled a remarkable Cartier piece as its April Jewel of the Month: a transformable diamond and gold daffodil brooch from around 1946.

This 18k yellow gold brooch features individually rotating petals, so the wearer can choose between the side with pavé-set diamonds or an elegant engraved all-gold finish that echoes Cartier’s iconic Grain de Café motif. The petals are framed by a delicate gold rope-twist border.

The clever reversible petal mechanism, documented alongside an original 1946 sketch in the book The Art of Cartier, highlights the maison’s dedication to both versatile aesthetics and technical brilliance. On the brooch, the daffodil’s trumpet (at its center) has six round brilliant-cut diamonds, supported by a fine gold wire stem and stylized leaves, one of them set with pavé diamonds.

“This brooch effortlessly marries exquisite craftsmanship with practical wearability, truly exemplifying the exceptional artistry and ingenuity that have made Cartier a global icon,” said Amy Burton, creative director at Hancocks London, in a statement.

Cartier’s floral brooches were highly sought after in the mid 20th century and beloved by royalty. Queen Elizabeth II received one as a wedding gift in 1947, and her famed Williamson pink diamond brooch from 1953 remains a highlight of her collection. The notable Cartier diamond rose brooch that Princess Margaret wore at her sister Elizabeth’s 1953 coronation (once owned by Hancocks) is featured on posters for the V&A exhibit.

Grain de Café was introduced in 1938 under the direction of the visionary designer Jeanne Toussaint, who elevated the modest coffee bean into a symbol of understated luxury, capturing the admiration of style icons like Grace Kelly.

Hancock’s historic Cartier daffodil brooch is priced at £95,000, or approximately $122,000.

(Photo courtesy of Hancocks London)

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