Antique & Estate Jewelry / Blogs: All That Glitters

Hancocks London Offers Iconic Bulgari Serpenti Tubogas Cuff

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Known for its fine selection of vintage and contemporary jewelry, Hancocks London has acquired a Bulgari tricolor gold cuff bracelet that combines two of the maison’s signature styles, Serpenti and Tubogas.

“It’s the first time we have seen this design,” said Hancocks London managing director Guy Burton in a statement, “so we expect it to catch the eyes of collectors, especially as it’s in excellent condition. It’s a fabulous statement piece of jewelry, incredibly chic and versatile to wear.”

The Serpenti Tubogas bracelet was made in the 1990s using the renowned Tubogas technique, with a coiled shape and tapered ends typical of Bulgari’s classic Serpenti design. Hancocks is selling the cuff for £45,000, or approximately $57,000.

“Despite its seemingly simple appearance, the creation of this wrist-wrapping bracelet involves a complex technique, requiring the coiling of several meters of gold or steel wire,” said Burton. “The skills required to create this statement piece by the house of Bulgari’s craftsmen are to be admired.”

Bulgari introduced its serpent motif, Serpenti (a nod to ancient Greek and Roman mythology), in 1948, and it remains one of the high jewelry house’s most iconic designs. Originally exclusive to jeweled watches coiling around the wrist, Serpenti has been reimagined and reinterpreted across various styles over the years.

Tubogas, created in 1881, is referred to as a “gas pipe” design, in which metal strips are wrapped around a piece’s core and interlocked to form a strong, flexible band without soldering. The style garnered widespread acclaim among jewelers from the 1940s onward.

(Photo courtesy of Hancocks London)

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By: Annie Davidson Watson

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