Roberto Coin is many things—idle is not one of them. The Italian jeweler, originally from Venice but now based in nearby Vicenza, aka the City of Gold, is a prolific creator, responsive to trends without being a slave to them. His 2021 collection is a thoughtful meditation on the styles that matter to fine jewelry consumers right now, as the country emerges from the pandemic, but before consumers are fully engaged with the world.
“The pandemic gave me (and many people) the gift of time that I have never had before in my life,” Coin tells JCK. “It allowed me the opportunity to be even more creative. I sketched and designed more than I have ever before. I worked closely with our model makers and design team as we moved all the tools they needed to their homes. Though our offices may have been closed, we continued to create from our homes in a very personal and collaborative way. In some ways, it was the best time of my life because I could focus on creativity and the result was a very broad collection this year.”
Here are the five themes that characterize his newest pieces.
The Style: Medallions
Coin has declared 2021 “the year of the medallion.”
“The Medallion collection is one I have wanted to do for some time,” he says. “In Venice, every important home or palazzo has medallions in marble or other stones that act as a coat of arms for the families. You see them on the facade of every building. The medallion look is very modern and stylish right now, and I wanted to make my own version.”
The range of styles includes round medallions featuring diamond-set symbols of the Western zodiac strung on 19-inch gold paper-clip chains that can be adjusted and worn multiple ways (each pendant has a detachable bail “for custom dangling,” according to Coin) as well as simple gold lockets scattered with diamonds. Think pieces that are sentimental—and swinging.
The Gems: Opaque Hard Stones
A trio of hard stones—led by lapis lazuli and including turquoise and malachite—are the gemstone players of the year for Coin. He features the dark-blue gem in his Obelisco collection as well as in a charming new zipper necklace that glams up a simple piece of hardware with a touch of diamonds and a lustrous setting of rose gold.
The Scale: Small
The emphasis this year is on small, wearable styles—such as the new Love in Verona huggie earrings pictured below—that easily transition from home to the beach (or the boardroom). People are still in a casual vibe this year, he says, by way of explanation.
The Ethos: Easy
The spirit that forms the foundation of the entire collection is making jewelry as easy as possible—to wear and to sell. That translates into styles such as open cuffs and stretch bracelets in the Obelisco collection, which are easy to slide on and off, as well as stretchable rings and smaller gold cuffs that are simpler to stack.
The Extra Touch: Personalized
Finally, Roberto Coin has created a number of necklaces with engravable backs that allow customers to personalize their jewels. Remember what we said earlier about sentimental? Don’t underestimate the power of a simple engraving to persuade an on-the-fence client to commit!
Top: Cancer zodiac medallion 18k gold pendant with 0.25 ct. t.w. diamonds on 18k gold paper-clip chain, $4,300
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