Colored Stones / Designers / Fashion / Gold / Industry / Retail

“Gemmaxxing” Is the Jewelry Trend Pushing Colorful Stones Into the Spotlight

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Most of have, by now, heard of looksmaxxing, an online subculture of men obsessed with doing anything to make themselves more handsome.

May we suggest gemmaxxing instead?

Zome chandelier earrings
Zyra earrings in 18k rose gold with 17 cts. t.w. sky blue topaz, 5 cts. t.w. peridot, and 5.5 cts. t.w. tourmalines, $7,300; Zome

“This new jewelry trend is all about piling on the sparkle, mixing gemstones and anything oversized,” Brielle Forman, founder of Brielle PR, wrote in an email that caught our eye. “Gemmaxxing (a viral maximalist fashion trend focused on extreme bedazzling) is the latest obsession in the jewelry world and we’re seeing stunning baubles stacked to the max with ultra-sparkle.”

Zome earrings
Aquarose earrings in 18k rose and white gold with aquamarines, hessonites, tourmalines, and natural diamonds, $15,000; Zome
Zome necklace
Irielle necklace in 18k rose gold with 6.84 cts. t.w. spinel, tourmalines, and aquamarines, $7,000; Zome

For jewelry retailers and clients alike, there’s no better time to embrace gemstones than the present. With gold at more than $4,500 per ounce, maximizing the gem content of a piece provides the big, bold look that many shoppers are seeking without the prohibitive price tag.

John Hardy Heishi bracelets
Heishi Gem bracelets in sterling silver with rhodolite, $850, with rhodolite, neon pink, and orange enamel beads, $995, with citrine, rhodolite, pink tourmaline, and orange and neon pink enamel beads, $1,450, with rhodolite, treated red quartz, pink opal, and rhodochrosite, $1,250, with citrine, orange spiny oyster shell, red spiny oyster shell, and orange enamel beads, $1,050; John Hardy

That economic reality helps explain why gem-centric collections, such as the five lines highlighted here, are ubiquitous this year. Take it from Reed Krakoff, creative chairman of John Hardy, which just extended its Icon Gemstone and Heishi Gemstone collections with an emphasis on color—in the case of the latter, lots and lots of it. (Inspired by the casual look of friendship bracelets, the sterling silver Heishi styles are chock-full of colorful beads, including topaz, tanzanite, chrysoprase, chalcedony, quartz, opal, malachite, and more.)

John Hardy bracelets
Heishi Gem bracelets in sterling silver with malachite, treated green quartz, aventurine, chrysoprase, and emerald, $950, with peridot, emerald, malachite, treated green quartz, chrysoprase, and green aventurine, $1,095, with peridot, $795; John Hardy

“Since joining John Hardy, I’ve been looking for the right way to introduce color beyond hardstone,” Krakoff said in a statement. “Semiprecious stones give a luxe treatment to two of John Hardy’s most beloved collections. Icon is more tailored and dressed up. Heishi is more casual and everyday. They’re complementary and interchangeable.”

Sunlit Ancient Colors medallion and ring
Ancient Colors medallion in blackened sterling silver and 24k gold leaf with blue chalcedony pear cabochon, $1,850, and Ancient Colors ring in blackened sterling silver and 24k gold leaf with tanzanite, $2,250; Sunlit Fine Jewelry

For Susan Hamilton Meier, founder of Sunlit Fine Jewelry, the addition of colored stones to her year-old collection of medieval styles was a direct way to pay homage to the ancient Etruscans, whose use of colorful beads she admired during an Italian sojourn earlier this year.

Sunlit Ancient Colors Charms
Ancient Colors charms in blackened sterling silver and 24k gold leaf with green tourmaline and orange moonstone, $1,450 each; Sunlit Fine Jewelry

“Last year I began developing a new technique to fuse gold with silver that draws on the ancient practices of gilding and keum-boo,” Meier tells JCK. “The ‘medieval finish’ feels both organic and elegant, resembling ancient artifacts just unearthed. Working with thick 24-karat Italian gold leaf, I make each piece by hand, so they are all one of a kind.

Sunlit Ancient Colors Rings
Ancient Colors rings in blackened sterling silver and 24k gold leaf with tanzanite, citrine, and green tourmaline, $2,250 each; Sunlit Fine Jewelry

“The newest Ancient Colors pieces feature colored stones drawn directly from an ancient Etruscan palette, inspired by my month in Rome this spring,” she adds. “As I explored the regions around Rome where the Etruscan civilization once flourished, I noticed that the gems and beads they favored were in a palette of ocean blues, earthy greens, warm oranges. For the new Ancient Colors Droplets, I selected deep green tourmalines, soft blue chalcedony, tanzanite, fiery citrine, and orange moonstone.”

Type Jewelry Leggo Pink Multi-Stone Necklace
Leggo Pink Multi Stone necklace in 14k yellow gold with quartz, topaz, morganite, tourmaline, moonstone, and opal, $26,800; Type Jewelry 

Finally, Sara Bassan, the Panamanian designer behind Type Jewelry, recently expanded her signature 3-year-old Leggo collection by adding a bold infusion of colors that lend the architecturally inspired pieces a big dose of playfulness.

Type Jewelry Leggo Double Mutli-Stone bracelet
Leggo Double Multi Stone bracelet in 14k yellow gold with pearl, red agate, amethyst, citrine, red garnet, pink opal, peridot, blue topaz, turquoise, and tourmaline, $15,900; Type Jewelry 

“I love color and wanted to introduce it to our Leggo collection in an unexpected way,” Bassan tells JCK. “The Multi Stone pieces include a full spectrum of colors, but rather than following a traditional rainbow palette, the stones are arranged in a more organic way. Each sequence composed so that every stone complements the next while still allowing individual colors to pop.

“We also recently introduced pink and blue versions of the Multi Stone pieces, which follow a similar logic,” she adds. “The stones are not arranged in a typical ombré of dark-to-light, but in a playful combination of shades that lets each stone speak for itself.”

Sounds like a gemmaxxing credo we should all be living by!

Claudia Mae ring
Chunky Nomad ring in 14k yellow gold with 5.38 ct. rose garnet and 2.33 cts. t.w. spinels, price on request; Claudia Mae
Claudia Mae Ombre Nomad Bangle
Wavy Round Classic Nomad bangle in 14k yellow gold with pink sapphires and diamonds, $12,500; Claudia Mae

Top: Leggo Spin Multi Stone ring in 14k yellow gold with pearl, amethyst, coral, citrine, red garnet, peridot, blue topaz, turquoise, tourmaline, $4,400; Type Jewelry 

By: Victoria Gomelsky

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