Key spring ready-to-wear clothing shows in four cities—New York, London, Milan, and Paris—took place from Sept. 2 through Oct. 1, resulting in a fresh crop of clothing trends. Jewelers need to take note in order to stock cases with the right pieces to complement the necklines and silhouettes of the season ahead. Here are 10 spring 2015 clothing trends drawn from the season’s most important ready-to-wear runway presentations in the aforementioned cities and why they’re important to jewelers.
1. The 1970s
When was the last time we witnessed such a healthy respect for the ’70s? Rebecca Minkoff suggested it in jumpsuits paired with gold-tone jewelry, as did Elie Saab and Saint Laurent with flowing silhouettes. But it was the Italians—Gucci, Alberta Ferretti, Just Cavalli, and Emilio Pucci—that positively owned the era with fringe, feathers, beads, and golden touches. Complementary jewelry should be gold, mimic the motifs, and bring lots of sexy to the equation.
2. Japanese Influences
Channeling Japanese? We think so! Especially considering that the runways were rich in kimono sleeves at Duro Olowu, floral-motif silks (Gucci, for one), cherry blossom patterns at Giambattista Valli, and even seed pearl flowers at Alexander McQueen. Accent attire accordingly with more pearls, floral and branch motifs, and pops of pink, red, coral, and/or white.
3. Relaxed Silhouettes
It’s déjà vu all over again for spring’s loose-fitting silhouettes. Thakoon Addition showed shirtdresses, Roberto Cavalli unveiled shift numbers (albeit with sequins), and others had roomy culottes and long, swishy skirts. Jewelry looks featured long, oversize and short, sweet pendant necklaces, while additional smart looks should include cabochon cuts of stones and colorful enamel or plastic numbers that coordinate with outfit colors.
4. Necklines and Necklaces
These were varied—square, V, asymmetrical, boat, halter, etc.—but all call for a necklace. Runway models were accessorized in weighty chokers at Mugler, bibs at Andrew Gn, little pendants at Versace, and some long numbers at Céline and Giorgio Armani. If 2014 is remembered as the year of the ear and all manner of mix-and-match studs, jackets, and climbers, then 2015 could be the year of the necklace.
Wearable tech was evident in clothing collections by way of laser-cut fabrics at Christian Siriano, Vivienne Tam, and Whistles, as well as in the wearable tech devices on the wrists of myriad models walking the New York City shows. Apple unveiled its smart watch that week, and inspired pieces appeared on runways: Rebecca Minkoff–minted bracelets–cum–phone chargers and necklaces linked to phones that buzz upon receipt of email or text, and gem-studded My Intelligent Communication Accessory (MICA) bracelets from Intel, among others, were at Opening Ceremony.
6. Flora and Fauna Themes
Ermanno Scervino, and Marchesa had flower prints in their collections, as did Jenny Packham, who also served up palm fronds. In fact, palms were fanning the creative flames of several houses: Band of Outsiders, Veronica Beard, and Elizabeth and James. Feathers, too, had a robust showing at Erdem, Fendi, and Brunello Cucinelli. For those dressed head-to-toe in the motifs, offer solid metal styles or pieces with pops of color from a print.
7. Bohemian Effects
Craft details were fully appreciated during the shows: raffia and pukka shells at Isabel Marant, embroidery at Dennis Basso, Mongolian lamb vests at Gucci, feathers at Brunello Cucinelli, DIY influences—in the clothes but also in found-object earrings and necklaces by Sonia Boyajian according to Style.com—at Nina Ricci, and fringe positively everywhere! Complementary accessories should include other natural elements like wood and leather, as well as beads and jewelry fringe fashioned out of chain and/or chain and stones.
Pantone calls the colors for spring 2015 “soothing” and a “contrast with the connectedness compulsion of many.” To wit, choices are muted—“a minimalistic en plein air theme,” the self-proclaimed color authority maintains. The runways reflected this call (Max Mara, for one, showed watercolor flower prints) since Pantone confers with top designers to learn of the shade they are using for collections ahead. To accessorize, go classic with a metal-intense jewel, add a pop of color with gemstones, enamel, or costume pieces in shades as soft or bold as you like.
Sporty attire still rules the runways! America invented it, and now other cultures are taking up its sartorial cause. Look to Ohne Titel for beach-lovers’ body-conscious styles, Ermanno Scervino for a juxtaposition of sportswear and glamour (bra tops with pencil skirts), and Roland Mouret for preppy tennis-court-ready dresses. For jewelry, choose watches, pieces featuring rubber, tech styles (see No. 5, Technology, above), brightly colored accessories that speak to the playfulness of outfit themes or even dog tags or other masculine-leaning forms.
10. Artistic Inspirations
The phrase artistic license was well used during the spring shows. Isabel Marant was inspired by the graphic works of painters Joan Miró and Antoni Tàpies to make tribal prints, Andrew Gn dreamed of Monet in painted water lilies that were digitally modified, and Derek Lam 10 Crosby found enlightenment in collage artists Fred Free and Sigrid Sandström in bonded crepe jackets “evoking Free’s and Sandström’s use of masking tape or gesso,” according to Style.com. Go-to jewelry should feature playful color combinations—think of rainbow-in-a-blender-like outfits from Chanel—metal-intense looks for balance or pieces with pops of color taken from prints.
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