Know the styles and necklines of clothes in the season ahead to offer the right jewelry in store
Key fall ready-to-wear clothing shows in four cities—New York, London, Milan, and Paris—took place Feb. 2–March 9, resulting in a fresh crop of clothing trends that will affect the jewelry we wear. Jewelers need to note these trends in order to stock cases with the right pieces to complement the necklines and silhouettes of the season ahead. Here are 10 fall 2016 jewelry trends drawn from the season’s most important ready-to-wear runway presentations and why they’re important.
Suede choker with hexagon motifs in 14k gold with opals and 0.12 ct. t.w. diamonds, $2,240; Fern Freeman
Choker and collar necklaces. These styles will remain a priority through the fall. Couturiers such as Alexander Wang, Jill Stuart, and Dolce & Gabbana dressed their runway models in them, while the works of others (think Diane von Furstenberg) virtually begged for big necklaces because of open real estate on the neckline. Another observation: Don’t be afraid to layer these with longer friends.
Mismatched earrings. It was the European shows where this trend had the most momentum. Simone Rocha’s quasi-matronly frocks used over-the-top crystal numbers for drama while Topshop Unique’s completely disparate varieties—hoops and dangly drops—spoke to the brand’s British cool-girl vibe. Even the Italians and the French agreed through the collections of Salvatore Ferragamo and Christian Dior, both of which loaded up their models’ ears with geometric pairs in varying lengths.
Safety pins, locks, and hardware. Buckles, pins, and locks are having a moment. Mother of Pearl dressed models in padlock earrings dangling from hoops and Mulberry’s pretties had little lockesque styles dangling from their lobes (even the brand’s creative director Johnny Coca appeared at the end of the show wearing a chain belt and key-ring-like attachment with a would-be lock fob). Then there were the Dolce & Gabbana buckle necklaces, massive safety pin earrings at Balenciaga and Christian Dior, and padlock chain necklaces at Isabel Marant. Offer the trend in store with safety pin motifs and lock jewels.
Yellow gold. The 1970s—long live fringe!—are still influential in fashion, and so are the 1980s now according to Jenny Packham, Acne, and Lanvin. Plus, there’s the matter of all the rich embroidery (think Naeem Khan, Prabal Gurung, and Vivienne Tam) in many collections that speak to brand strengths and eastern European influences, among others. Yellow gold is the ideal metal to adorn these looks.
Long pendant necklaces. There’s plenty 1970s-inspired attire for fall that demands dramatic pendant necklaces to complete looks. Look to Trina Turk’s pimptastic yellow gold pieces with negative space, more funky numbers at Moschino, chic agates on chain in models wearing smart fitted ensembles at Elie Saab, and vintage-looking pieces in John Galliano’s mix. Jewelers, this is an easy sell for you, and don’t forgot to encourage layered looks.
Bows and chains. This duo is a fierce combination. Alexander Wang’s tough girls had chain necklaces, as did Alexander McQueen’s ladies, who were dripping in them. On the bow front, there were loads of loops on the buttoned-up shirts at Michael Kors, Temperley London, and Gucci. Meanwhile—and to no one’s surprise—Moschino mixed both with enthusiasm. For jewelers, these trends are fairly easy to follow; offer up any number of chain styles and bow and ribbon-like motifs.
Oversize earrings. These are a holdover from the spring runways. Louis Vuitton showed them on models as did Maison Margiela. Also important: all the outfits—think Halston Heritage, Monique Lhuillier, and Milly—where a big earring would serve as a great accessory. This look, too, is pretty easy for jewelers to offer; just look for the big styles that are already in your cases.
Pearls. They are having a moment in fashion as well as in the jewelry industry itself. Moschino showed strands mixed with funky chains as did Marchesa—as well as showing loads dangling from oversize chandelier earrings. Gucci’s Catherine de Medici–inspired styles, however, offered a more regal effect. One collection that could have benefited from a few pearls? Bibhu Mohapatra’s fur and black lace creations that could have gotten a lustrous boost and/or balance from some oversize South Sea styles. A word of caution to jewelers: don’t think in traditional style terms; go for big baroque and colorful pearls.
Layered necklaces. Collars with long chains and dangly charms? Why not! Layered necklaces are still a thing. For examples, look to Valentino’s delicate pendant necklaces against sweaters and Temperley London’s layered white metal station varieties on open necklines. Bonus: The long lengths are looking good with chokers, too! Even Prada’s offerings could have benefited from a little layering.
Long drop earrings. The long clothing silhouettes from BCBG Max Azria and Zac Posen are a perfect backdrop against which long earrings can pop. Models at Rebecca Taylor and Rodarte embraced the lean look with their own linear and playful pairs, while jewelers can easily go long this fall with options already in cases. This style is a no-brainer for you, jeweler.
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