The merchandise assortment at this year’s VicenzaOro Winter 2014 fair, Jan. 18–23, told a different story than last year’s price-point styles. Gone were Garavelli’s 9 k gold styles, which the brand decided to discontinue, and even silver maker Bohemme of Cordoba, Spain, revealed plans to debut a karat gold line after a 40 percent increase in sales in 2013. Brazilian firm Vianna revealed that its focus was on quality over quantity, and that its intent was to move into branding. Among its newest offerings: lavender-color gems that speak to the 2014 color of the year, Radiant Orchid, as well as amazonite, blue topaz, and London blue topaz, which were “most successful during the holiday season,” explained Karla Antunes, the firm’s creative and marketing director.
Industry titan Roberto Coin explained that his business experienced “almost a double-digit increase in 2013,” largely due to gold. “It’s slightly cheaper than it was before,” he added. “There was a void in the market.” Coin also offered a peek at his design push for Baselworld: tiny enameled flowers with big appeal to fans of lifelike miniatures.
First-time exhibitor Wendy Yue brought rubellite and tsavorite numbers, among other items, for important buyers coming to visit her from Morocco and other countries. “I bring pieces that I love,” said the Hong Kong–based designer, who debuted at the show due to client requests.
Meanwhile, Le Vian held a cocktail party at its booth on Jan. 19, in the spirit of its annual Red Carpet Fashion Show held at JCK Las Vegas. “We have a more international reach here,” explained Jonathan LeVian, who joined the family firm (dad is CEO Eddie LeVian) full-time in June. “Usually Americans go to Italy for fashion, but we are bringing it to the Italians.” Additions to its Derby collection in honor of the year of the horse on the Chinese calendar were evident in jewelry as well as watches.
Other looks at the show included plenty of jewel tones (think blue, green, purple, orange, and yellow), gold designs with negative space and cage effects, stackable pieces, cabochons, station necklaces, and even a few makers of leather bags, and some bridal lines.