
When I say my jaw dropped at the sight of Emily P. Wheeler‘s newest collection, I mean I’m currently making an appointment to have my TMJ examined.
Consumers want bigger and more distinctive? This is one of the most definitive answers to that demand I’ve seen recently. Sphere is bold, colorful, lush, and satisfies every yearning to not see yourself coming and going. It can only be described as epic—a collection that somehow contains a bit of everything.
Wheeler has managed to hit a remarkable number of desirable notes without making the pieces feel remotely trend-driven: opaque gemstones, generous scale, rich color, kinetic movement, and a highly individual point of view. The result looks less like an attempt to meet the moment and more like a series of tiny works of art that just happen to be exceptionally wearable and so very right now.



And to think it all comes down to one very simple shape.
For Sphere, Wheeler challenged herself to design an entire collection around—as the name implies—the sphere, using changes in material, color, proportion, and setting to give the same geometric form wildly different personalities. Across the collection, spheres appear in combinations including pearl and diamond, chrysocolla and emerald, and pink opal with ebony.
There is movement, too. In select pieces, slender gold pins run through the center of the spheres, allowing them to pivot and shift with the wearer—a particularly satisfying detail given how solid and architectural the forms appear at first glance. It’s like a tactile little bonus that gives the wearer something to enjoy, while also ensuring maximum comfort and flair.


Adding to the exquisite fun: the collection’s materials. One high jewelry necklace pairs a pavé diamond collar with graduated spheres of sapphire, rhodonite, amazonite, turquoise, and tiger’s-eye; elsewhere, pale pink opal meets ebony and white diamonds in a scalloped statement collar accented with yellow gold. Even the rings play with the formula, adding diamonds, sapphires, or emeralds to pearl, pink opal, or chrysocolla centers.
What I love about Sphere is that it adds to the ongoing conversation about having to choose between serious jewelry and fun jewelry. It’s technically ambitious, materially rich, and clearly considered—but it also has the sort of immediate, visceral appeal that makes you want to reach through the screen and touch it.


And in my case, apparently, schedule a dentist appointment.
Top: Disco bracelet in 18k white gold with 6.26 cts. t.w. diamonds and 4.47 cts. t.w. sapphires, rhodonite, amazonite, turquoise, and tiger’s-eye, $46,000; Emily P. Wheeler
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