Never underestimate the power of tie-dye—something I’ve been saying ever since becoming a mom. The transformative power that dye has on children’s (and grown-ups’) clothing is incredible. A piece you thought was ruined suddenly becomes brand-new. A masterpiece, even.
Emily P. Wheeler’s Resistance collection goes deeper than spaghetti stains and mud. The art of tie-dye is truly just that—art—spanning centuries and cultures, from the Japanese shibori to the Indonesian batik, both of which have been around for over a thousand years. The modern tie-dye we know and love, psychedelic and colorful, was made popular in the 1960s.
Techniques are incredibly varied as well. Wheeler’s Resistance collection explores that concept, drawing on the technique of protecting certain areas of the fabric when it’s covered in dye—in short, those areas “resist” the dye.
“With the Resistance collection, I wanted to explore color and emotion through the visual language of tie-dye—from its countercultural roots to its rich, global history,” says Wheeler. “Each technique offered me a new lens for storytelling through form and stone.”
The designer explores those various techniques through subcollections of Resistance: Helix, Arashi, Pollack, Batik, Spiral, and Ripple. Using folded or pleated fabric to create wave-like patterns, Ripple is brought to life by the new pieces pictured here.
Rippling patterns are represented by both natural gemstones and goldsmithing, engraved to match the lines of waves. Sculpted abalone and malachite star in two of the Ripple rings, their patterns echoed in the waves etched into the rings’ golden bands.
Wheeler continues that etching with a pavé diamond–accented ring, as well as a matching pair of stud earrings and pendant, the trio of which would make a marvelous suite but also are a cinch to match with any and all pieces from the collection.
See the Resistance collection in its entirety on Emily P. Wheeler’s website.
Top: Ripple ring in 18k yellow gold with abalone, $5,200; Emily P. Wheeler
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