Blogs: All That Glitters / Colored Stones / Designers

Emily P. Wheeler’s New Dress Up Collection Is Ready To Party

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Even a passing glance at designer Emily P. Wheeler’s new collection will have you tapping your toe in anticipation of your next invitation to the ball. It’s a spangled dance floor filled with orchid corsages, marabou boas, and arms sheathed in shocking pink opera gloves. It’s the prom scene in The Virgin Suicides imbued with an Umbrellas of Cherbourg palette.

“It’s time to dress up” is the message of the Dress Up collection, and its imperative is deeply felt. Lollipop spirals comingle with “unicorn” bicolor spinels and the designer’s off-kilter X cigar bands, reimagined in vibrant gems and marshmallow-white enamel. Some of the designs are named after Disney princesses. And Wheeler’s signature hearts have come to the soiree to slay—some merely sweet, others unimaginably opulent.

Wheeler began designing the collection early on in the quarantine period, and she reveals diverse inspiration points: pop art, work by contemporary acrylic artists Betsy Enzensberger and Stephanie Roberts, and even children’s costume jewelry. Wheeler continued to add pieces to the Dress Up range throughout 2020 and this year, waiting to unveil it until a vaccine became available. That way, buyers and press could see the jewels in person. Plus, at this precise moment, the collective mood is much more optimistic.

The collection’s tennis necklaces and bypass heart rings are getting attention from some of the retailers who have seen the line, but Wheeler points out the Love earrings (pictured below) as an example of a Dress Up jewel that perfectly encapsulates the theme she hoped to express.

“They radiate love, which I hope the whole collection does,” she says. “They also incorporate enamel as a way to brighten the color palette of the ombré sapphires and add a little extra glamour. They also feel incredibly nostalgic to me—remember going through your mom’s jewelry box as a kid and clipping on the biggest, most decadent earrings you could find? That’s how these feel to me. They have a childlike spirit in super luxe materials.”

Emily P Wheeler Love earrings
One-of-a-kind Love earrings in 18k rose gold with 7.23 cts. t.w. sapphire hearts and 1.45 cts. t.w. pavé sapphires, $12,800
Emily P Wheeler dress up rings
Clockwise, from left: Baby Flamingo ombré ring in 18k rose gold with pink sapphires, $4,600; one-of-a-kind Farrah ring in 18k yellow gold and pink and blue enamel with turquoise and Malaya garnet, $12,000; Elsa ring in 18k yellow gold and white enamel with 1.69 cts. t.w. pink spinel, $3,200; Baby Sunrise ombré ring in 18k yellow gold with yellow sapphires, $4,600; X Cigar Ring in 18k yellow gold and white enamel with emeralds, $2,400
Emily P Wheeler princess earrings
Princess earrings in 18k white gold with morganite, diamonds, and spinel (also on model at top), $12,000

And what does one wear with such mega jewels, such dazzling Harajuku ice cream shop colors? There is a very beautiful lookbook styled by Micaela Erlanger and shot by Elizabeth Lippman to inspire you. Elaina Karras did the makeup—and the eyeliner is the cherry on top of all this.

See what I mean below.

 

Emily P Wheeler campaign silver
Ursula Earrings in 18k rose gold with Australian opals, morganite, spinel, and diamonds, $28,000. Ombré signet ring in 18k rose gold with pink sapphires, $3,600. Jen Rings in 18k yellow and rose gold with spinel and pink sapphires, $2,400 each. Sparkle ring in 18k rose gold with diamonds and pink sapphires, $14,900. Puffy bands in 18k gold with diamonds, $9,800, and 18k black gold and black diamonds, $6,000. Flamingo Puffy band in 18k gold with pink sapphires, $4,200. Hexagon bracelets in 18k yellow/rose gold with mother-of-pearl and diamonds, $12,000 each. (Photo by Elizabeth Lippman)
Emily P Wheeler campaign white
Baby single heart stud in 18k gold with sapphire, $800. Enamel heart stud in 18k yellow gold and white enamel with sapphires and diamonds, $4,200. Elsa rings in 18k yellow gold and white enamel with pink and blue spinel hearts, $3,200 each. Jasmine ring in 18k rose gold with pink spinel and sapphire, $12,000. Sunset ring in 18k yellow gold with sapphire, $8,700. Princess Bride necklace in 18k rose gold with pearls, sapphires, and tourmaline, $14,900. Tiered bracelets in 18k yellow and white gold and enamel with diamonds, pink sapphires, pink spinel, and diamonds, $9,800–$11,200 each. Heart Bracelet in 18k yellow gold and white agate with pink sapphire, $8,900. (Photo by Elizabeth Lippman)
Emily P Wheeler campaign blue eyeliner
Odette studs in 18k rose and white gold with Australian opal and pink sapphire, $12,800. Puffy band in 18k gold with diamonds, $9,800. Flamingo Puffy band in 18k gold with pink sapphires, $4,200. Sunrise Puffy band in 18k yellow gold with yellow sapphires, $4,200. Chubby ring in 18k rose and white gold with sapphires and diamonds, $14,000. Spiral Ring in 18k yellow gold with yellow sapphires, $5,400. Twinkle rings in 18k gold and white enamel with amethyst, lemon quartz, Rose de France amethyst, and diamonds, $2,400–$3,400 each. (Photo by Elizabeth Lippman)

Top: “I love the light, the earrings with the dress, the eyeliner…the whole thing!” says designer Emily P. Wheeler on her favorite shot from the campaign. (Photo by Elizabeth Lippman)

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Amy Elliott

By: Amy Elliott

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