Among the many new collections designer Jennifer Dawes showed in Las Vegas, one stood out: a petite but provocative offering made with Csarite, a rare gem found only in Turkey’s remote Anatolian mountains.
The stone’s defining characteristics—natural and untreated, with tantalizing color-changing abilities and even a smidge of chatoyancy—make it an ideal fit for Dawes and the work she’s known for. And the fact that Csarite is responsibly sourced and ethically mined from only one known source in the world aligns perfectly with Dawes’ socially and environmentally conscious values.
“When I do collaborations it is important that I do it with companies that are responsible,” says Dawes.
Jennifer Dawes necklace featuring 1.28 cts. tw. round Csarite drops and a 20.52 ct. Csarite pendant on a 32 inch, 18k yellow gold chain; $9,025
To create her Csarite capsule, Dawes partnered with Milenyum Mining Ltd., Csarite’s sole supplier. The company has pursued collaborations with Dawes and a number of other top-tier designers (e.g., Jules Kim, Victor Velyan, Alex Soldier, and Katie Diamond) to enhance the gem’s credibility within the luxury marketplace and place its product in the hands of discerning consumers around the globe. That is, those who are drawn in by the idea of owning a “collector’s gem”—something no one else has that is, in fact, 10,000 times rarer than a diamond.
The designer Erica Courtney, who has used the stone to create lavish, maximalist baubles worthy of the Romanovs, was the first to turn on Dawes to Csarite. “She thought I would love the stone because of how rare it is and the way it is sustainably mined, as I’m always looking for materials that are transparently sourced,” says Dawes.
Ultimately, though, the essence of the stone’s allure resides in its inimitable beauty—namely, its ability to flash a palette of kiwi and olive greens, cognacs, and raspberry purplish-pinks in a variety of lighting scenarios
“It’s truly a remarkable stone,” says Dawes. “I’m also attracted to the actual crystal formation of Csarite. I’ve even had some stones cut to showcase the natural beauty of the crystal matrix for some couture pieces, although this doesn’t highlight the color-change aspect of the gem.”
As for the pieces highlighted below, Dawes reports a strong response from the retailers she met with in Las Vegas. From the rarity of the gem and its “earthy olive hue” to the romance of its origins, you can understand why.
Earrings featuring an octagonal 3.64 ct. Csarite post, 1.91 cts. tw. round Csarites, and 5.9 cts. tw. kite-shape Csarite drops, $7,500 (Also at top)
Necklace featuring five graduated 3.7 cts. tw. bezel-set Csarite drops, $3,375
Hammered branch ring with a 6.73 ct. oval rose-cut Csarite in 18k yellow gold with leaves and pink and cognac diamond berries, $11,625
To see how other important designers are inspired by the stone, stop by booth AWE6M02 at the Hong Kong show next month, where Zaiken, Nak Armstong, Susan Wheeler, Rémy Rotenier, and Marla Aaron are among those debuting Csarite collections; Karin Jamieson and Pamela Froman are expected to introduce new pieces to their existing Csarite capsules.
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