Diamond Jewelry / Diamonds / Industry

CIBJO Pushes to Replace ‘Laboratory-Grown’ With ‘Synthetic’

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The World Jewellery Confederation (CIBJO) on Monday affirmed its support for using the word synthetic to describe man-made diamonds in its venerable Blue Books.

CIBJO’s general assembly and board of directors took up the name change as suggested by its diamond commission, which had begun studying the revision in 2025 after its Paris congress meeting.

Confederation president Gaetano Cavalieri described Sunday’s heated debate during CIBJO’s diamond commission meeting in Vicenza, Italy, as “emotional.” But after more than a year of consideration, CIBJO now joins organizations including the London Diamond Bourse and the African Diamond Producers Association that solely recommend using the term synthetic over the phrases laboratory-grown and laboratory-created.

Although several lab-grown diamond leaders including Laboratory-Grown Diamond Council member Tom Chatham wrote letters and emails to CIBJO asking the organization to delay its decision, Cavalieri said CIBJO would proceed because of the open and varied input its commissions have had on the topic for more than a year.

“In school, I was taught: The absent are always wrong,” Cavalieri told the diamond commission audience. “I invite all of them to join us and contribute.… If the people are interested in participating, this is the house. If they want to be part of it, welcome. Please come. We need to stand together for the same objective for the same goal for the same reason because we’re all collectively discussing [this], even if we disagree.”

Tracey Ellison at CIBJO
Tracey Ellison (holding microphone) at Sunday’s Diamond Committee session

CIBJO Diamond Commission president Udi Sheintal told the audience it is time for the Blue Books to take out the lab-grown and -created terms. CIBJO’s Colored Stone Commission also voted on Sunday to use synthetic instead.

“This is not about marketing. It is about telling the truth to the consumer,” Sheintal said. “You all know that a Peking duck is a duck dish. But a Bombay duck is a fish dish. That is why you need the matter to be very precise and very on the spot so the consumer will know what he’s asking for. Synthetic diamonds we all know do not grow or are created in a laboratory. They’re manufactured in a factory by an industrial process by machines. Period.”

While CIBJO’s process and rules should be respected, Cavalieri said each country will follow its own terminology. For example, the United States, through the Federal Trade Commission, has said companies can use the terms synthetic, lab-grown, or lab-created for man-made diamonds.

The American Gem Trade Association leadership also said in its CIBJO panel discussion that it plans to continue its communications with the FTC, urging it to “correct” its 2018 decision on the term synthetic as part of its next revision of its Jewelry Guides. The revision is slated for 2028.

“AGTA believes consumers deserve clear and accurate distinctions between natural diamonds and synthetic products,” AGTA CEO John Ford tells JCK. “AGTA is also actively educating members of the United States Congress about this issue and encouraging them to engage with the FTC on behalf of American consumers. AGTA remains committed to transparency, accurate product representation, and protecting consumers throughout the jewelry industry.”

Because each Blue Book is a living document, it can be reviewed again if any interested parties from the synthetic industry want to add their voices as well as join CIBJO, Sheintal said.

“This is our home and stop throwing stones at us,” Sheintal said.

Several audience members, including jewelry influencer and blogger Tracey Ellison (aka The Diamonds Girl), questioned how and when they should start using the synthetic term. Ellison has been a vocal proponent of natural diamonds in her work within the industry and on social media.

“Thank you so much to CIBJO for the fabulous work that was done on this proposal. It’s all music to my ears,” Ellison said.

Top: CIBJO president Gaetano Cavalieri leading Monday’s Laboratory-Grown Diamond Committee session (photos courtesy of CIBJO)

Karen Dybis

By: Karen Dybis

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