
It’s officially (well, basically) the holiday season, and to me nothing says the holiday season in jewelry better than a pair of statement earrings.
The obvious choice would be something with bold, rich color. Glinting gold or platinum, glittering diamonds. Something dramatic, like a holiday ornament in bejeweled form. Zome’s earrings pictured here are not the obvious choice, and that’s precisely why I like them.
Meghna Biswas told JCK earlier this year that she thinks of jewelry as “wearable architecture,” and these drops demonstrate that beautifully. The Zome founder and designer’s Zyra earrings look a little like someone took an art deco building, broke it into gemstones, and figured out how to make the whole thing dance.
Part of Zome’s Axia collection, the earrings incorporate 17 cts. of sky blue topaz, 5 cts. of peridot, and 5.5 cts. of tourmaline in 18k rose gold. Circles, rectangles, and pear shapes are arranged along strong vertical lines, but several of the stones are articulated, disrupting all that stately order with movement. That tension is entirely intentional. “The architectural framework definitely came first,” Biswas says. “I wanted to create a composition inspired by the strong geometric language of the art deco era, but with an unexpected sense of fluidity.”
Biswas sourced the gemstones in pairs from different parts of the world and had them specially cut to work within the design. “For me, it was about creating a piece of wearable architecture where every element had its own place and purpose.”
It’s the gemstones’ soft colors that keep all that precision from feeling too severe. Biswas imagined the palette as a miniature landscape: green peridot for the forest, pink tourmaline for the warmth of the sands, and sky blue topaz for, naturally, the sky. “Color has always been one of my strongest design instincts, and I love combining unexpected shades that complement rather than compete with one another,” she says.
Even the rose gold was chosen to maintain that balance. Yellow gold, Biswas felt, would bring too much warmth to the palette, while white gold would read too cool. Rose gold sits somewhere in the middle, picking up the pink tourmaline while allowing the blues and greens to stay fresh.
But the earrings’ best trick may not reveal itself until they’re actually being worn. At first glance, Zyra looks highly structured, almost rigid. With its straight lines and bezel-set gemstones, everything appears locked in place. Then the suspended gemstones begin moving independently. “I believe earrings should respond naturally to every movement of the wearer,” Biswas says. “Gemstones are particularly fascinating because their appearance changes as they catch light from different angles.” That movement lets the colors and facets continually shift, turning what could have been a fairly strict exercise in geometry into something considerably more playful.
“I love creating jewelry that reveals something unexpected the longer you look at it,” Biswas says. “With Zyra, I wanted geometry to come alive—almost as though the gemstones have their own little dance.”
That unexpectedness is what makes Zome’s earrings a wondrous holiday choice—they don’t rely on deep red and green, velvety sapphire, or an avalanche of diamonds. Instead, they catch the light, softly call attention, and transition to everyday ornaments well beyond the holiday season.
Top: Zyra earrings in 18k rose gold with 17 cts. t.w. sky blue topaz, 5 cts. t.w. peridot, and 5.5 cts. t.w. tourmaline, price on request; Zome
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