Blogs: On Your Market / Colored Stones

Britt’s Pick: Eden Presley’s Bicolor Tourmaline and Spinel Ring

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We are entering the season of the moodiest hues, and gemstones are no exception. While some gems offer a reliably consistent pop of color, others seem to contain worlds, behaving in an entirely unexpected way. The tourmaline at the center of Eden Presley‘s one-of-a-kind ring offers the latter—an enchanting unpredictability that feels especially of the moment.

The ring’s whopping 12.17 ct. bicolor tourmaline is wonderfully moody, its shifting color giving the stone the sort of personality that a more conventional gem simply couldn’t replicate. Designer Gwen Myers surrounds it with rich spinel and sparkling diamonds, all set in 14k gold. The result is colorful without feeling particularly bright or sweet—it’s rich, slightly mysterious, and utterly individual.

For Myers, that individuality isn’t a response to the current appetite for unusual colored stones. It’s been fundamental to her company, Eden Presley, from the beginning.

“My entire brand has been built by women who don’t want to wear the same thing everyone else is wearing,” she says. “I’ve always worked with these types of stones. As long as I keep selling the pieces, I’ll keep working with them.”

Myers has worked with the same stone dealers for years, to the point that they’ll now hold material they suspect will appeal to her. When considering a stone, she says she’s looking at three things: “The quality, the color, and the price.”

And more often than not, the stone comes first.

“I almost always start with the stone,” Myers says. While she has created several iterations of this particular ring design over the years, no two can be quite the same when the gemstone dictates the finished jewel.

The choice of spinel surrounding this tourmaline was similarly driven by color. “Spinel is a certain vibrant shade of red that is all its own,” Myers says.

That vivid red against the tourmaline’s more complicated coloration is part of what makes the finished ring so compelling: There’s no attempt to make the colors behave or match seamlessly—they don’t need to. For retailers, that singularity can be a powerful sales tool.

Myers has invested in one-of-a-kind jewelry since Eden Presley’s early days, and she says the brand has consequently developed a collector base that understands what “one of one” really means.

“I can often make something similar, but if there’s something about a piece that speaks to you, it’s a buy-now situation,” she says. “We generally sell through the one-of-a-kind quickly.”

It’s a compelling proposition at a time when shoppers have endless access to things that look like everything else. A gemstone like this one offers something different: Nature has already done much of the work of making it personal.

“These pieces are my favorite ones to make,” Myers says.

It’s easy to see why.

Top: One-of-a-kind ring in 14k yellow gold with 12.17 ct. bicolor tourmaline, 0.47 ct. t.w. spinel, and 0.32 ct. t.w. diamonds, $5,600; Eden Presley

By: Brittany Siminitz

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