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This Upcoming Auction Is Chock-Full of Van Cleef & Arpels Jewels

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Bonhams’ Paris Jewels auction on Oct. 16 boasts nearly two dozen pieces from Van Cleef & Arpels—designs from the 1930s through today—among its 180 total lots, which also include jewelry from Cartier, Boucheron, Bulgari, Harry Winston, Graff, Tiffany & Co., Mauboussin, Seaman Schepps, and Georges Braque.

Leading the Van Cleef & Arpels selection, with an estimate of $17,000 to $29,000, is an art deco–era bow brooch with baguette and brilliant-cut set in 18k gold and platinum openwork. “The ‘Rubans’ brooch has stood the test of time and remains as stylish today as when it was first imagined in 1937,” Marine Girardet, Bonhams’ head of jewelry in France, said of the piece in a statement.

VCA Rubans brooch
Van Cleef & Arpels “Rubans” clip brooch (circa 1937) in 18k gold and platinum with diamonds, estimate $17,000–$29,000

The sale will also feature several of Van Cleef & Arpels’ signature Alhambra sautoirs, including a Lucky Alhambra necklace (pictured at top) with mother-of-pearl, onyx, malachite, tiger’s eye, and carnelian, estimated to achieve up to $23,000. Other Alhambra sautoirs are offered with a single type of gem: chrysoprase, onyx, mother-of-pearl, tiger’s eye, or coral in two sizes of quatrefoil motifs.

“Paris Jewels puts the spotlight on the world of Van Cleef & Arpels with designs spanning the decades…that showcase the maison’s exceptional craftsmanship and technical abilities in creating sophisticated jewels,” said Girardet.

VCA earclips
Van Cleef & Arpels “Heritage Pelouse” earclips (circa 1965) in 18k gold and platinum with circular-cut rubies and brilliant-cut diamonds, estimate $17,000–$29,000

Among the other highlights of the upcoming auction are two rare Georges Braque brooches circa 1960, including a bird with ruby eye; an 1880s bracelet with emeralds, diamonds, and cultured pearl; 8.58 and 6.41 ct. diamond solitaire rings; diamond earrings with a pearl drop, convertible to studs;  a Cartier “Trinity” bracelet; sapphire and diamond earrings with matching brooch; and a circa 1935 hinged diamond bracelet. A few additional notable pieces are pictured below.

diamond earrings
Chandelier earrings in 18k gold with pear-shape diamonds, estimate $17,000–$29,000
Seaman Schepps brooch
Seaman Schepps brooch-watch in 14k yellow gold with circular-cut garnets in face; step-cut emeralds plus emerald, sapphire and ruby cabochons and marquise, baguette, single-, and brilliant-cut diamonds in midsection; and carved emerald cabochon concealing a circular dial with Arabic numeral indicators and mechanical movement, estimate $9,300–$14,000
Georges Braque brooch
Georges Braque fish brooch (circa 1960) in 18k gold with opal, estimate $7,000–$9,300

(Photos courtesy of Bonhams)

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By: Annie Davidson Watson

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