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Aponïne Builds a Color-First Fine Jewelry Business From Istanbul

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Founded by mother-and-daughter duo Yasemin and Nisa Çakar, Istanbul-based Aponïne is not shy about color. Saturated gemstones, unexpected pairings, and playful forms meet the kind of meticulous craftsmanship the city is known for, resulting in jewelry that feels bold without veering into novelty.

Aponïne’s identity is centered on Istanbul, where jewelry is handmade by artisans in the Grand Bazaar. At the historic covered market in the old city, generations of craftspeople have developed expertise in techniques including that recognizable pavé setting.

“We love taking traditional craftsmanship and giving it a completely contemporary expression through color, unexpected gemstones, and playful forms,” the founders say via email.

That balance between old and new also plays out within the design partnership itself. Yasemin brings what Nisa describes as an instinct for timelessness and elegance, while Nisa tends to push toward something more fanciful.

“There is a constant dialogue between us,” Nisa says, “and I think that tension is what makes the designs interesting.”

Aponine Bonbons aquamarine earrings
Bonbons earrings in 18k white gold with 2.02 cts. t.w. aquamarine and 4.16 cts. t.w. sapphires, price on request

Gemstones are chosen with a similarly intuitive approach. “We are drawn to gemstones that have energy, an unusual shade, a beautiful saturation, or simply a color that immediately makes us feel something,” the founders say. “We don’t necessarily begin with rarity—we begin with emotion. A stone has to have personality.”

That philosophy helps explain Aponïne’s frequent use of color combinations that fall outside the usual fine jewelry palette. Rather than beginning with conventional pairings, the designers experiment with stones, shades, and proportions until the composition feels balanced. “Aponïne is not afraid of color, but there still needs to be harmony,” they say. “Even our boldest pieces should feel sophisticated rather than overwhelming.”

Aponine orange Bonbons ring
Bonbons ring in 18k yellow gold with 1.08 ct. orange sapphire and 3.12 cts. t.w. orange sapphires, price on request

Importantly for retailers, customers appear willing to wear that color far beyond special occasions. According to the brand, clients routinely stack rings, layer necklaces, and mix Aponïne with pieces they already own. “Colorful fine jewelry doesn’t have to be reserved for special occasions,” the founders say. “Jewelry should feel precious, but never too precious to wear.”

Aponine Melting B necklace
Melting B necklace in 14k yellow gold with rubies, $2,381

The Bonbons collection is often a customer’s first introduction to the brand. Its bold, brightly colored pieces offer an approachable entry into Aponïne’s aesthetic, while the Melt in Love initial necklaces add a more personal element. The brand also has found that shoppers don’t necessarily stay within a single design category. A customer drawn to the playful Bonbons collection also may buy from Eternal, Aponïne’s more classic line.

“We don’t see the Aponïne woman as having one fixed aesthetic,” the founders say. “She can want something timeless one day and something playful and colorful the next.” That flexibility could be useful at retail, where a brand still needs enough range to support repeat purchases.

Aponine Bonbons ruby earrings
Bonbons earrings in 18k rose gold with 2.63 cts. t.w. ruby center stones and 3.91 cts. t.w. pavé rubies, price on request

Aponïne currently operates a showroom in Istanbul and is sold at Beymen, a Turkish digital luxury platform. Internationally, the company is pursuing selective wholesale growth through retail partners, trunk shows, and events. The United States has become an important market—current stockists include Gembox Boston, Big Bang Faena in Miami, and the Four Seasons Resort in Orlando—and Aponïne also is developing its presence in Europe and sees additional potential in the Middle East.

“For us, expansion is about finding the right partners rather than simply being everywhere,” the founders say. “We look for retailers with a strong point of view and customers who appreciate craftsmanship, color, and jewelry that feels distinctive.”

Aponine Love Letters necklace
Love Letters necklace in 18k yellow gold with diamonds, $2,885

Managing growth while working with natural colored gemstones does present a familiar wholesale challenge: consistency. Aponïne generally produces in limited quantities—certain core designs can be reproduced and replenished for retail partners, while pieces built around unusual gemstones or uncommon color combinations may remain limited or one of a kind, the founders say. Even within repeatable styles, natural stones will carry subtle variations.

Aponine Bonbons earrings
Bonbons earrings in 18k white gold with 1.02 cts. t.w. pink tourmaline and 2.61 cts. t.w. pink sapphires, price on request

The brand considers that variability part of its proposition. “We want to grow internationally without losing that sense of discovery and individuality that makes fine jewelry special.”

Aponine Melting O necklace
Melting O necklace in 14k yellow gold with 0.38 ct. t.w. multicolored sapphires, $2,594

For retailers, that may be the most useful way to understand Aponïne. Its color is bold, but the business model is not built on spectacle alone. The brand offers recognizable entry points, repeatable core designs, and pieces intended for everyday wear—while preserving enough variation to make the customer feel they have found something distinctly her own.

And in a market crowded with jewelry designed to appeal to everyone, that sense of discovery can be a selling point in itself.

Top: Bonbons ring in 18k rose gold with 2.9 cts. t.w. multicolored sapphires, price on request; Aponïne

By: Brittany Siminitz

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