One of the most beautiful collections we saw at the India International Jewellery Show (IIJS) 2018, held in Mumbai earlier this week, was by Anil Bharwani, a partner of Seth Sunderas & Sons. Among the most prolific designers we’ve come across of late and beloved by Indian customers, Bharwani churns out an average of 400 to 800 handcrafted pieces per collection.
Influenced by anything from art nouveau to art deco, Bharwani works with diamonds, rubies, emeralds, tanzanite, pearls, coral (a stone that’s moving quite well in India), blue topaz, citrine, and amethysts in his jewelry creations.
Some standouts at the show included a double-finger butterfly ring that spans the entire hand—and, yes, the wings of the butterfly move; a ruby lotus flower cocktail ring whose petals open and close with a turn of the shank; and earrings made of precious stones that are affixed with small batteries that literally light up when worn.
“Well, it’s all that I know how to do,” says Bharwani, modestly describing his capacity to design a staggering number of one-of-a-kind pieces. “I’m not from the trade, so I had to learn the hard way.”
Bharwani says he is a former English teacher and construction contractor, and he hails from a long line of landlords in his native Pakistan. He emigrated to India in 1990 and, armed with an aesthetic eye, took on the jewelry industry.
Bharwani talks of jewelry design much like a former English teacher would—that is, each piece transcends the materials involved and tells its own story.
Peacock bracelet made of enamel, emeralds and tanzanite; price upon request
Ring with round Mozambique rubies with a small emerald in the center surrounded by coral; price upon request
Parrot bangle made of shaded sapphire, emeralds, diamonds and plique-à-jour enamel; price upon request
(Top image: Bracelet featuring emeralds with mogul flowers carving, ruby baguettes, and a diamond tassel of diamonds)