Last week we tackled the modern heirloom, offering input from a number of jewelry designers and brands about why a piece of jewelry would be considered one. This week we consult them on another term making the rounds in the industry: affordable luxury.
The phrase is an oxymoron, really. By definition, luxury—or extravagance—doesn’t sound affordable. But in certain contexts, there’s a fluidity to the word luxury that doesn’t necessarily suggest high price. According to some industry people I spoke with, luxury has less to do with how much something costs and more to do with how it makes someone feel, and for how long.
Affordable luxury might be about materials—less gold, a smaller carat weight, lab-grown gems, maybe—but it’s always about not compromising on quality, particularly when it comes to design. For a brand with recognizable DNA, keeping those signature design elements consistent across all price points is key, so all customers, no matter their budget, can experience what makes the brand special.
“To me, affordable luxury means bringing the emotion and integrity of true fine jewelry to a more approachable level without ever compromising on craftsmanship or soul,” says designer Sanaz Doost. “In my collections, even the simplest piece reflects the same geometry, goldwork, and storytelling as my high jewels. It’s about making artistry feel attainable, where affordable refers to accessibility, not a loss of essence.”
But how does a designer succeed in creating lower-priced jewels, especially when they’re made by hand and with fine materials? “I’m an industrial designer as well as a jeweler, so I naturally think about structure, efficiency, and how to engineer beauty without losing integrity,” Doost says. “When I speak about affordable luxury, it’s never about lowering quality, it’s about intelligent design. I might refine the scale, thickness, or construction so that a piece feels just as substantial visually, while being more material-efficient.
“Every piece remains solid 18 karat gold, crafted by hand, with the same attention to geometry, detail, and storytelling as my high jewels. To me, true luxury isn’t about excess—it’s about precision, intention, and soul,” she adds.
Joy Haugaard, founder and creative designer of the brand Lionheart, tells me, “Affordable luxury means owning something that feels deeply personal and lasting, without compromise in craftsmanship or design.
“In jewelry, it’s about offering the same level of artistry, storytelling, and fine materials you’d find in high jewelry—just made accessible so more people can experience the emotion and heritage behind it. It’s about offering fine jewelry that feels aspirational yet attainable, pieces that people can invest in and wear every day, not just on special occasions.”
Designer Ellis Mhairi Cameron identifies a few categories in her product line that could be affordable luxury. “For clients starting their fine jewelry journey—gold-only pieces, more affordable delicate studs, and everyday necklaces that carry the same style as the rest of my work but without the full price tag of diamond-set pieces,” she says. One good entry point to Cameron’s eponymous brand is its Origins collection.
Besides craftsmanship, sentimentality is another running theme here. Consumers don’t have to empty their wallets to go home with a piece they really connect with, and it’s in that connection where true luxury is found.
“It’s about honoring craftsmanship without compromise and sharing that artistry in a way that invites more people to experience the magic of owning something truly special,” says Lena Ağdere Sedaka, CEO and brand director of Lord Jewelry. “Because at the end of the day, real luxury isn’t defined by a price tag—it’s a feeling.”
She continues, “We can’t change the price of gold, but we can change how we design with it. Now more than ever, designers are called to be inventive—to explore proportion, mix materials, and rethink form to create something beautiful and meaningful without compromising artistry. Luxury lives not only in the materials but in the story, the experience, and the emotion woven into every detail.”
Marie Helena, founder of Rebel Jewelry, notes that while “material and craftsmanship, and the look and feel of a piece, is very important” to luxury, “so is the story behind the piece.
“All of our pieces are made to order and handmade in small batches, and each piece has a story behind it that our customers can relate to,” says Helena. “Nowadays, people are appreciating these things more than expensive items with no emotional connection to them.”
At some brands, affordable luxury takes the form of demi-fine jewelry, which can serve as a gateway to finer things. A luxury jeweler might offer pieces in 9k gold, or even vermeil, to capture new shoppers—and, hopefully, their loyalty should their spending power increase.
“For us, it’s having a demi-fine offering available so our customers can grow into fine,” explains Ashley McGinty, co-owner of Chouette Designs. “Maybe not every jeweler views demi-fine as a luxury, but it’s been a great way to transition folks into fine—and that counts to me.” In other words, an affordable purchase from a luxury brand is still luxury, regardless of the materials.
Top: Trio of Azure ring in 18k yellow gold with 0.86 ct. unheated Australian sapphire and Persian turquoise, $3,400; Sanaz Doost
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