It’s only February, and JCK editors already have been to the VicenzaOro show in Vicenza, Italy; the AGTA GemFair, GJX, 22nd Street, and more shows at Tucson Gem Week; and NouvelleBox, Melee the show, and NY Now in New York City. We’re exhausted…and energized, after seeing so much amazing jewelry.

First things first: VicenzaOro. Comprising 1,300 brands and visitors from 145 countries, the January edition, which ran Jan. 17–21, felt, as usual, buzzy and optimistic—jam-packed with buyers doing business, educational seminars, and attendees roaming the aisles looking for new and exciting jewels.

“Coming here is very important, especially because it is the first show of the year,” said Matteo Farsura, head of the gold and jewelry division for Italian Exhibition Group, which produces the twice-yearly VicenzaOro, speaking with JCK on day 3 of the show. “The buyers are coming here—this is what our exhibitors are telling me—and they need product. They need to buy.”

JCK was part of the hosted international press contingent for three days and four nights and felt the good vibes firsthand. As Farsura fittingly said of Vicenza: “It’s a small city but with a big heart able to welcome any person who wants to come.”

So what did we see, and what did we love, at Vicenza?

Peruffo Ride ring

We always find something cool at Peruffo, from its spiky Studs collection to its sculptural Slide designs to its sinuous Glide pieces; they love playing with movement. This year, we discovered their stretchy Blocks collection, and were especially taken with this super-wearable signet-style 18k gold and diamond ring: Is it a man’s ring? Yes! Is it a woman’s ring? Yes!

Chiarelli Milano Ulivo bracelet

Inspired by the olive tree, the twisty Ulivo collection is made entirely in 18k rose gold, with and without diamonds. We think Chiarelli Milano has landed on the perfect shade of rose gold—not too brassy, not too pink, and one that looks wonderfully warm on any skin tone.

 

 

Oscar Massin Lab-Grown Diamond Double Halo earrings

Whether you love or loathe lab-growns, there’s no denying the traffic-stopping beauty of these earrings (also pictured at top). Rose-cut lab-grown diamonds! Oscar Massin has been using LGDs since the heritage French brand’s revival in 2022, but these rose-cuts are next level. The perfect blend of vintage style and modern technology.

 

 

Picchiotti Classic emerald, sapphire, and diamond necklace

Remember the season 4 Sex and the City episode where Carrie puts Aidan’s engagement ring on a chain—really because she doesn’t want it on her finger, but saying it’s because it’s closer to her heart—and Aidan freaks out? Here’s a ring that’s designed to be worn on a necklace. Both Picchiotti’s baguette diamond and emerald drop and the sapphire pendant detach, allowing you to pop that 9.57 ct. Sri Lankan “Royal Blue” oval sapphire with baguette diamond halo into an 18k white gold setting (not pictured) with 1.23 cts. t.w. baguette diamonds lining the band. And now you have a matching necklace to wear with your ring.

 

Nanis Boules rings

These doublet and triplet rings—stones layered with rock crystal and, in one case, rock crystal and mother-of-pearl—take their inspiration, Nanis explained, from La Dolce Vita and Italian drinks of the 1960s: (from top) Lattementa for the jadeite, Anice for the amazonite, Violetta for the lepidolite, and Rosolio for the strawberry quartz ring. Incidentally, if you haven’t tried latte e menta—ice, peppermint syrup, milk, and a fresh mint sprig—it makes for a delicious summer drink.

 

Miseno Cortile bracelet

Miseno takes great care in naming its jewelry collections: Baia, with its hexagon-shape stones, is inspired by the mosaics in Capo Miseno’s bay. Faro takes its name from the rays of the sun. And Cortile pays homage to Italy’s courtyards. With interlocking shapes and almost haphazard connections, this 18k white gold and diamond Cortile bracelet captures the country’s centuries-old stonework perfectly.

 

Tavanti Giove collection

We’re suckers for anything celestial. Case in point: these Giove (translation: Jupiter) pieces from Tavanti, which are topped by a cluster of diamonds evoking a starlit night. And the high-polish finish is so elegant! Also, if you happen to find yourself in Florence, Italy—and who wouldn’t want to find themselves in Florence?—you can see more Tavanti, as well as other made-in-Italy brands, at COI. Stop by the stunning showroom on Via Por Santa Maria 8, and ask for Fadi.

 

Pianegonda Amatum bracelet

I’m not a silver person. But every time I visit Pianegonda, I start to think, okay, maybe I am a silver person. This year, I was immediately enchanted by this super-chunky reversible chain bracelet: solid silver on one side, blue enamel on the other. Two jewels for the price of one!

 

Alessio Boschi Golestan Palace ring

A visit with Alessio Boschi is never just a visit—it’s a lesson in art history. Every Boschi piece has a fantastic story behind it, and there’s nothing better than hearing him excitedly tell the tale of its origins. The Golestan Palace ring is a trip around the world and back in time, and a peek into the mad-genius mind of the designer, who sees every jewel as a chance to surprise, delight, and enchant: The top of the ring—a stunning carved emerald set in flawless turquoise—pops open to reveal a chain with seven miniature Persian rugs, all in enamel; they all fold up and rest on a throne. A ring fit for royalty!