
Last week, we talked rose-cut diamonds—their soft shimmer, glassy surfaces, and their weird, romantic appeal compared with the more sparkle-forward antique cuts. But there’s one piece I didn’t include in that roundup.
When Oscar Heyman‘s bracelet arrived in my inbox alongside some of those diamond pieces, I knew I’d be holding it for further exploration. It served to remind me that the rose cut isn’t just for diamonds, and when a colored gemstone gets the treatment, it’s like something entirely new.
The wide piece features a scatter-like setting of unheated, multicolored rose-cut sapphires and round diamonds totaling 7.45 cts., all set in platinum and 18k gold. At $150,000, it is very much a major jewel, but what grabbed me first wasn’t its value or even its scale. It was all that color.
Rather than a perfectly graduated rainbow, the sapphires move through pink, plum, peach, pale yellow, green, blue, and all sorts of in-between shades that I struggle to put names to. The rose cuts give them the same softly reflective quality I love in diamonds, only here the effect is less about glow, and more about letting all those colors breathe.
“As a house that specializes in multicolor jewelry, the majority of our jewelry with rose cuts has been colored gemstones as opposed to diamonds,” says Oscar Heyman president Tom Heyman. “They offer a beautiful and understated elegance.”
For this bracelet, the goal was a warm, slightly pastel palette. Oscar Heyman’s designer sorted through a large parcel of sapphires of roughly the same size to arrive at the final combination. “In a bracelet such as this, where the stones vary in hue, placement needs to be considered to create a flow, so that particular stones do not look out of place,” Heyman says.
That’s probably what makes the bracelet feel so effortless despite how much it has going on. There are a lot of colors here—I mean, a lot—but nothing seems to shout over anything else. The effect is almost mosaic-like, with the diamonds acting as flashes of brightness between the sapphires. That hierarchy is intentional. “Our designers always compose the color first, and then select diamonds that complement their desired outcome,” Heyman says.
Rose cuts also leave very little room for a gemstone to hide. Their flatter construction and transparency can amplify inclusions, although the roughly 5 mm sapphires used here are small enough to be relatively forgiving. “In larger rose-cut stones, any flaws are on full display,” Heyman says. “Being that the stones are round, you really do get to enjoy all the faceting of the rose cut.”
The bracelet’s other trick is one you can’t fully appreciate in a photograph: its flexibility. Despite its width and dense scatter of stones, Heyman says the piece remains supple on the wrist, thanks largely to the tiny connections engineered between each setting. “That is where our highly skilled jewelers shine—deciding where to place connections so that the piece is secure, but also feels luxurious and comfortable when worn,” he says.
And while rose cuts may be enjoying renewed attention, Heyman says Oscar Heyman’s clientele hasn’t suddenly discovered them. “We haven’t seen a shift in desire because customers come to Oscar Heyman for rare and unique items, and rose cuts definitely fit the bill,” he says.
What has shifted, he believes, is how people want to wear jewelry of this caliber. “Today’s jewelry customer seems to want pieces they can wear regularly—high jewelry that is not just reserved for the most formal of occasions.”
At $150,000, nobody is going to mistake this for a piece of casual jewelry. But its soft colors, flexible construction, and slightly irregular design keep it from feeling stiff or ceremonial.
Bracelet in platinum with 63.31 cts. t.w. rose-cut sapphires and 7.45 cts. t.w. round diamonds, $150,000; Oscar Heyman
- Subscribe to the JCK News Daily
- Subscribe to the JCK Special Report
- Follow JCK on Instagram: @jckmagazine
- Follow JCK on X: @jckmagazine
- Follow JCK on Facebook: @jckmagazine



