Sotheby’s will auction the personal jewelry collection of art collector Pauline Karpidas in New York on Dec. 8, offering 70 pieces with a combined estimate of around $10 million.
The jewelry reflects Karpidas’ preference for bold, unconventional design, ranging from art deco and retro pieces to one-of-a-kind creations by Joel Arthur Rosenthal, better known as JAR, and Suzanne Belperron. The collection also contains jewelry by Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Bulgari, Boucheron, Chanel, and Verdura.
The jewelry sale follows Sotheby’s auctions of art and design from Karpidas’ London collection in 2025, which realized $137 million.
Leading the sale is a JAR colored diamond, diamond, and chalcedony ring, estimated at $2.5 million to $3.5 million (shown at top). Other JAR pieces include a diamond and basalt ring (estimate $450,000–$650,000); a sapphire and platinum ring (estimate $300,000–$500,000); and an early floral pendant necklace (estimate $250,000–$350,000).
Some pieces have their own prominent collecting histories. Karpidas acquired a circa 1945 rock crystal bracelet by Seaman Schepps (now estimated at $50,000 to $70,000) and a Verdura amethyst and diamond brooch with earclips (estimate $20,000–$30,000) at a Sotheby’s 1988 sale of jewelry and watches from Andy Warhol’s estate. A Cartier ruby ring and pair of ruby earrings, now estimated together at $100,000 to $150,000, came from the auction house’s 1987 sale of the Duchess of Windsor’s jewels.
Sotheby’s said in a statement that Karpidas was particularly drawn to jewelry of the 1930s and ’40s and developed a friendship with Warhol after discovering their shared enthusiasm for jewelry of that era. Warhol painted Karpidas’ portrait in 1978.
The assortment also includes a distinctive group of Belperron jewels. Among them is an aquamarine and diamond necklace/brooch with an estimate of $150,000 to $250,000.
Additional highlights include a circa 1930 Cartier Tutti Frutti clip-brooch (estimate $150,000–$250,000), a circa 1925 Cartier emerald, onyx, and diamond bracelet (estimate $200,000–$300,000), and a circa 1930s Chanel colored stone bracelet (estimate $80,000–$120,000).
Karpidas developed her collection alongside her late husband, Constantinos “Dinos” Karpidas, initially with the guidance of Greek gallerist Alexander Iolas. Her circle eventually included artists, designers, and collectors such as Warhol, Paloma Picasso, and Max Ernst. Sotheby’s said the jewelry reflects the same interest in surrealism, experimentation, color, and unusual design that shaped her art collection.
The collection will go on public view at Sotheby’s in New York beginning Dec. 2, ahead of the Dec. 8 auction.
The JCK News Desk uses AI to help research and produce the first draft of articles. This story was then reviewed by staff writer David Blomquist.
Top: Ring in carved light gray chalcedony with 10.1 ct. pear-shape fancy intense orangey-pink diamond and single-cut white diamond border, signed JAR Paris (photos courtesy of Sothebys)
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