
Richemont today reported “a solid performance” for the fiscal year ended March 31, fueled by high demand for its jewelry maisons, Buccellati, Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, and Vhernier.
The Swiss-based luxury group said its total sales for the year rose 11% over the previous year, to €22.4 billion ($26 billion), while jewelry sales increased 14%, reaching €16.5 billion ($19.2 billion).
Sales were up 16% for Richemont’s jewelry brands in the fourth quarter. All percentages are based on constant, not actual, exchange rates.
Growth was slower among Richemont’s watch companies, rising just 1% at constant exchange rates (but down 4% at actual exchange rates), to €3.1 billion. Still, Richemont described these results as “encouraging” given the challenging watch market of the past two years.
Richemont watch brands include Vacheron Constantin, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai, Piaget, Roger Dubuis, A. Lange & Söhne, Baume & Mercier, and IWC Schaffhausen.
Overall, Richemont said every region worldwide contributed to sales growth. It reported “double-digit” sales increases groupwide in the Americas and the Middle East/Africa, and improvement in the “high single digits” for Europe and Asia/Pacific.
“As we navigated through fast-evolving geopolitical and macroeconomic conditions, the group maintained its long-term focus, prioritizing maisons’ future growth prospects, whilst exercising discipline on costs and operational execution,” Richemont chairman Johann Rupert said in the year-end financial report.
Jewelry in particular showed resilience, which Rupert credited to “a clear long-term approach centered on differentiation, strong brand identity, and disciplined pricing.”
On Richemont’s Friday earnings call, CFO Burkhart Grund said iconic collections did well for the jewelry maisons, citing Love and Panthère at Cartier, Alhambra and Perlée at Van Cleef & Arpels, and Opera and Macri at Buccellati.
New products also helped, Grund said, naming Buccellati’s bejeweled bags and color additions to Étoilée, Cartier’s Love Unlimited and Clash color pieces, and Van Cleef & Arpels’ Alhambra novelties as well as its new Flower Lace and Fleurs d’Hawaï collections.
“As they faced higher costs throughout the year, notably higher gold prices combined with unfavorable currency movements, jewelry maisons implemented measured price increases,” Rupert said in the report. “In parallel, they demonstrated agility in managing their operating costs, all while continuing to build brand desirability and selectively expand their retail footprint.
“While each maison operates within its own market sector dynamics, the success of many collections highlights the importance of nurturing strong creativity consistent with a clear and distinctive identity, supported by consistent execution over time,” he added.
The jewelry brands will maintain their strong market position, Richemont CEO Nicolas Bos said on the earnings call, partly by continuing “to elevate the quality of our retail network,” with key store openings by Van Cleef & Arpels in Europe; Cartier in Tokyo; Buccellati in Busan, Korea; and IWC in Dallas.
Rupert concluded his statement with a look ahead, noting that uncertainty will persist in regards to the economy and the Middle East.
“Against this backdrop, the group remains vigilant and will continue to rely on its long-term orientation and disciplined operating approach to enchant clients, maintain the desirability of its maisons, and deliver sustainable value over time for all stakeholders,” he said.
Top: The Van Cleef & Arpels store that opened earlier this year in Short Hills, N.J. (photo courtesy of Richemont)
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