Britt’s Pick: Harwell Godfrey’s Tourmaline Bianca Ring

By Brittany Siminitz | November 04, 2025

The month with tourmaline as its birthstone just ended, but the joy we get from laying eyes on the vivacious gem never does, especially when it’s featured in a piece of jewelry like this Bianca Ring from Harwell Godfrey, with a tourmaline that shows off a mesmerizing aura of color.

“The central stone is a bicolor tourmaline that I sourced personally at this year’s Tucson gem fair,” says Harwell Godfrey founder Lauren Godfrey, whose love for designing showstopping jewels is so evident it’s intoxicating. “I was immediately taken by the way the color shifts from violet to sea green—it felt almost like gemstone tie-dye, which to me was the perfect way to nod to the 1970s through colored stones.

“It’s also my first time working with bicolor tourmaline, which made the piece especially exciting to bring to life.”

Godfrey refers to the ’70s because the ring is a part of her 1975 collection, an ode to her birth year and a celebration of some of the most iconic hallmarks of the decade. The collection comprises five capsules—Granny Squares, Lil’ Buddies, Key Party, Disco, and Bianca.

This one-of-a-kind tourmaline ring belongs to the latter, named for the collection’s muse, Bianca Jagger. A major style icon of the 1970s (and then wife of Rolling Stones frontman Mick Jagger), Bianca Jagger was known for her tailored looks and “effortless blend of elegance and edge,” Godfrey says. “The diamond-embellished lines add a touch of pure Studio 54—bold, glittering, and unapologetically glamorous.”

Not one to leave a single detail without intention, Godfrey frames the central tourmaline in a hand-carved rock crystal, which the designer says was intended to honor the beauty of the stone, giving it “an architectural frame that felt luminous yet strong.” The crystal also echoes the immersive glam of Studio 54—its mirrors, sequined decor, massive disco ball, all playing on the light and creating a spectacle that the who’s who of New York wanted to be part of.

Achieving a frame like the one on the Bianca ring is no simple feat, as no two frames, just like no two gems, are the same. “Each crystal frame is custom-cut to fit its specific stone—there’s no template—making it an incredibly precise process that requires both technical skill and intuition.” Godfrey says. “The result is a seamless relationship between the two materials, as though the crystal and tourmaline were born together.”

Top: Bianca ring in 18k yellow gold with 11.19 ct. bicolor tourmaline, 8.2 ct. rock crystal, and 0.85 ct. t.w. diamonds, $23,500; Harwell Godfrey