Cora Sheibani’s New Collection Shines a Light on Pearls

By Amy Elliott | July 31, 2025

Whimsy. Wit. Wordplay. That’s how jewelry collectors who are familiar with Cora Sheibani’s work might sum up the crux of her aesthetic. The acclaimed Swiss-born, London-based jewelry designer, who has exhibited at such prestigious institutions as Sotheby’s, Louisa Guinness Gallery, and Mahnaz Collection, is also well known for experimenting with unconventional materials such as anodized aluminum and fluorescent gems that create glow-in-the-dark patterns.

There is always something of a wink to Sheibani’s creations—consider 2022’s much-admired “Pottering Around” as just one example. And occasionally there is a bit of surrealism. Color is intrinsic as well, whether it’s pill-like beads in malachite and turquoise or a clear amethyst, carved in the shape of a bundt cake, at the center of a cocktail ring.

The title of Sheibani’s latest collection, Skin Deep, is a reference its hero element—pearls and their nacreous surfaces—but the pieces are “a reflection on beauty, imperfection, and how we sometimes overthink what’s ‘natural’ or ‘perfect,’” explains Sheibani.

Cora Sheibani portrait pearls — *Cora Sheibani wearing pearls from her latest collection, Skin Deep*

“For a long time I resisted pearls, thinking they were too fragile or fussy,” she says. “But I was craving softness—something with a more organic, luminous surface. Pearls felt right.”

Skin Deep marks Sheibani’s first significant use of pearls in her designs. “In general, I tend to be drawn to tactile materials—wood, coral, unusual stones—things that have a story or an organic quality. Pearls fit into that naturally.

“I also like the idea of subverting traditional hierarchies. In the pearl world, there’s often this unspoken ranking: Tahitian pearls are more desirable than Chinese ones; golden South Sea pearls outrank white ones. But I wanted to mix them all together and let the individual character of each pearl dictate its value—not where it comes from.”

Cora Sheibani Butterfly Pearl Pendant — *Butterfly pearl pendant with Tahitian, Edison and aurora baroque pearls in platinum, price on request*

Favoring soft tones of peach, luminous grays and silvers, and warm golden hues and greens, Sheibani hand-picked each pearl that appears in the line: “I’m especially drawn to pearls with overtones—where the surface color shifts depending on the light. That iridescence is so evocative, almost like skin.”

The mix of akoya, Edison, and Tahitian varieties was sourced from a trusted network of pearlers, including a Chinese supplier based in Holland and, for the deluxe classic strands, “a French dealer I’ve worked with for years—he’s one of the main pearl suppliers in Paris and also shows at GemGenève,” says Sheibani.

Cora Sheibani Medium Silver Double Pearl Strand — *Medium silver double-strand necklace with cultured pearls and white gold clasp, price on request*

Cora Sheibani purple Pearl Earrings — *B&B earrings with deep purple Edison pearls, amethysts, and Palmeira citrines in platinum, price on request*

Her pearl selection process was very instinctive. “Color and luster were the two main things I was looking for. There’s something beautifully quiet about a pearl’s glow—it’s not loud, but it has presence. I wanted to find pearls that had that depth and softness, the kind that make you stop and look again,” says Sheibani.

“Cultured pearls, especially from China, have come a long way in terms of quality,” she says. “When I studied at GIA, pearls like this weren’t as available. Now you can get beautifully round, high-luster pearls in unexpected colors.”

Cora Sheibani Pearl Pot Earrings — *Pearl pot earrings in platinum with Tahitian pearls and green jasper, price on request*

Cora Sheibani Renaissance Pearl Earrings — *Renaissance pearl earrings with Tahitian pearls, gray spinels, and teal tourmalines in platinum, price on request*

She notes, “There’s a growing appreciation for individuality—pearls with unusual colors or overtones, like pistachio or golden-green, are finally being seen for their beauty.”

Beyond classic pearl necklaces, the designer saw an opportunity to pop the gems into concepts and pieces from previous collections, including Facets & Forms and Copper Mould (the perfect-for-summer “sorbet rings” at top and below hail from the former). These jewels highlight the contrast between polished metals and soft organic finishes, juxtaposing ideas of strength and fragility, perfection and imperfection.

Cora Sheibani ice cream rings — *Sorbet rings in rose gold with peach and light copper Edison pearls (left) and in yellow gold with deep gray and brown Tahitian pearls, prices on request*

Sheibani expects that Skin Deep will resonate with collectors who “are ready for something softer, something with emotion and character,” she says. “Perhaps pearls feel like a natural response to years of minimalist, hard-edged stones. Also, I think there’s a little humor in this collection—it doesn’t take itself too seriously. And right now, that feels very welcome.”

Top: This white gold ring with light pink freshwater and deep purple Edison pearls, from Cora Sheibani’s new Skin Deep collection, gives off black raspberry ice cream cone vibes. (Sheibani photo courtesy of the designer)