Now that designers have abandoned the misconception that pearls are stodgy, they’re not only embracing the molluscous beauties in their full range of colors but also mixing things up for a new take on pearl jewelry. Thanks to fashion leaders like Robert Lee Morris, the modern menu of pearl jewelry offers up a fresh selection of pearls combined with nontraditional materials. Meanwhile, an increasing number of designs feature different varieties of pearls grouped together in peaceful—and beautiful—coexistence. Finally, even high-end designers like Henry Dunay are celebrating the individuality of a statement-making baroque pearl.

This trend toward experimentation with nontraditional pearls and pearl combinations reflects fashion’s endorsement of avant-garde pairings—like denim and fur—and jewelry consumers’ new taste for merchandise that’s unusual, unique, and decidedly not ubiquitous.