The American Gem Trade Association’s latest award winners spotlight emerging trends in colored stone jewelry design

The 1995 Spectrum Award Competition drew 400 entries, up 13% from last year. The group highlights popular looks to come in gemstone jewelry design; featured in many pieces were:

· Rainbows created with varying colors of tourmaline, garnet or sapphire.

· Ruby, emerald and/or sapphire (the primary or accent stones in 12% of entries).

· Tourmalines (the principal stone in more than 15% of entries and an accent in others).

· Opals, including black, boulder, fire or crystal (featured in 9% of entries) and tanzanites (in 12%).

· Pearls, from blister to black (featured in 18 entries).

· Organic or non-traditional materials (a variety of drusies appeared in 20 entries, uvarovite garnet in 6 and rainbow hematite in 5).

· Color combinations, including purple and green; pastel blends; rainbows; and blues and greens with gold.

· Metal combinations, some as simple as white with yellow gold, and finishes including matte, reticulated gold, blackened silver and Shakudo. Platinum appeared in 14% of entries.

· Movement and versatility (some 14% of entries performed more than one task).

Overall, competition was keenest in the mid-price categories; Division I (above $10,000 retail) had only 32 entries and Division V ($1,000 and under) only 43.

Following is a list of the winners; they will receive their trophies at a dinner dance held during the AGTA GemFair in Tucson.

DIVISION I

(over $10,000 RETAIL)

First, Alan Friedman,

Alan Friedman Co., Beverly Hills, Cal.

Second, Paul Klecka,

Paul Klecka Inc., Chicago, Ill.

– his second Spectrum Award.

Third, Llyn L. Strelau,

Jewels by Designs, Calgary, Alberta, Canada – her second consecutive Spectrum Award.

DIVISION II

($5,001–$10,000 retail)

First, Gary Schick,

World Diamond Co., Lauderhill, Fla.

Second, Scott Anthony Gauthier,

Jewelry by Gauthier, Scottsdale, Ariz. – winner of two awards this year.

Third, Linda McGill,

Jewelsmith Inc., Durham, N.C.

– her third Spectrum Award.

DIVISION III

($2,501–$5,000 retail)

First, Cornelis Hollander,

Cornelis Hollander Designs Inc.,

Scottsdale, Ariz. – his fifth Spectrum Award, the most received by any

designer. (Hollander’s pin/pendant is shown on the front cover of this issue.)

Second, Burdett A. Milkins,

A.B. Milkins Co., Monroe, Mich.

Third, Scott Anthony Gauthier.

DIVISION IV

($1,001–$2,500 retail)

First, William Richey,

William Richey Designs Inc.,

Camden, Me. – his fourth consecutive Spectrum Award.

Second, Barbara Sherrick,

Jack Seibert Goldsmith Jeweler, Columbus, Ohio.

Third, Samantha Freeman,

Samantha Freeman Design,

Jersey City, N.J

DIVISION V

(Under $1,000 retail)

First, Sean Gilson,

Gilson Designs,

Cornwall Bridge, Conn.

Second, Jane Bohan,

Jane Bohan Inc., New York, N..Y.

Third, Lisa Barends,

Jack Seibert Goldsmith Jeweler.

This year’s judges were Eve Alfille, designer and retail jeweler, Eve J. Alfille Ltd., Evanston, Ill., and Judith Evans, director of design, Krementz Gemstones, Newark, N.J. Both are former Spectrum Award winners. They rated the entries for beauty, originality, wearability, quality of workmanship, salability, effective use of materials and quality of gemstones.

In addition to awarding the 15 top prizes, the judges also requested that 13 designers receive honorable mentions. The 13: Ruud Kahle, John J. Langenfeld, Mark Lauer, Mark Loren, Jennifer Rabe, Nikki Scaduto, Joanna J. Seetdo, Jane Silver, Becky Thatcher, Patricia Viel, Robert Wander, Stephen Webster and Elliot Weissmark.