Boa noite from Sao Paulo! Being back at this show is such a treat. The people are nice, the food is great (think Pao de Queijo—Brazilian cheese bread—and caipirinhas), and the jewelry is stunning. Because there are so many wonderful pieces of jewelry at each company’s stand, I’m limiting posts to just a few firms (otherwise I’ll be up all night and miss my trip to Daslu tomorrow).
I think Brazilian jewelry is an underappreciated niche, at least in the U.S. Americans may know of H.Stern, Brazil’s biggest international success, due to that firm’s participation in dressing celebrities for Red Carpet events and its globally situated boutiques, but otherwise, mainstream America likely has little awareness of Brazilian jewelry.
As I stated the other day, it’s colorful and sexy, but it’s also primarily 18k gold (a big selling point for American luxury retailers) and largely affordable due to focused efforts to keep prices down for Brazilian buyers. Many of the retail prices for jewelry at this show start at $1,000.
While many styles could intimidate American shoppers due to oversize proportions (especially in earrings), statement-making rings—abundant here—are favored by U.S. consumers. Some demure interpretations of bigger looks are becoming more widely available due to demand for less expensive pieces, but I think these styles end up looking like any other drab design you could find in 20 different jewelry stores. Note to audience: big bold Brazilian jewelry loses its impact when it’s watered down; it’s like going to a fine-dining restaurant and telling the chef to make your meal without butter. What’s the point? Another negative I notice: keeping the price down in gold means keeping designs light, and in this jewelry, that often means very thin ring shanks. I wonder how these wear over time (Eventually I’ll know, because I ordered a ring). But overall and in light of today’s economy, Brazilian jewelry packs a big look for the money, and is worth checking out.
Sterling silver, 18k gold accents, gems Starting Retail Price (SRP) $700
Orbital collection, 18k gold, diamonds, SRP $2,000
Also Orbital. See the cool ‘bubble’ cut under the stone?
Looping collection, inspired by roller coasters, 18k gold, pearls (requested more often by consumers in Brazil), diamomnds SRP $1,000
Waves collection, 18k gold, diamonds, gems, SRP $1,000
From the Nature collection, these pieces are laser cut in sheet–evident from the crisp details and flat-looking surfaces–and soldered together. Can you picture that bracelet as an arm cuff? Make it happen (please), Manoel!
Raw collection, quartz, 18k gold, diamonds SRP $1,000. All stones are irregularly cut and feature checkerboard or purposely uneven tables. See the slope effect on the colorless quartz ring.
Nature collection, 18k gold. The necklace on the right looks like a collar of flowers thanks to marquise cuts of colored stones.
Art Nouveau collection, 18k gold, diamonds, SRP $1,200
Raw collection, quartz, citrine
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