July 2016

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10 Things Rocking the Industry, July–August 2016

SHOWS For years, attendees of jewelry market week in Las Vegas have had to sacrifice Memorial Day to travel. Next year, however, they’ll be free to enjoy the holiday. The invite-only LUXURY show will start Friday, June 2, and run through Sunday, June 4. LUXURY opens to all JCK badge holders on the same day…

Editor’s Letter, July–August 2016: To the Moonstone and Back

Anyone who’s a regular at JCK Las Vegas knows what I mean when I say some years are kookier than others. This was one of those years. I had more random run-ins, chance meetings, and offbeat conversations at the show than I’ve had in the past three years combined—a consequence, I suspect, of my decision…

Ear! Ear! What Editor-in-Chief Victoria Gomelsky Is Loving This Month

“My favorite Vegas finds were eye-catching earrings with blue and pink stones.” —Editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky   (Top) These Thalurania Colombica earrings from Vicky Lew are so polished, it’s hard to believe she was a “Kickstarter” at this year’s JCK show. (Vicky Lew London, price on request, vickylew.com)    Watermelon tourmaline slices, opals, wood horns, and diamonds—Jacquie Aiche never…

Publisher’s Letter, July–August 2016: What a Week!

I’m just about fully rested from yet another amazing nine days in Las Vegas. What an incredible week of trade shows, learning, industry events, and good old-fashioned schmoozing! First up was the new, expanded LUXURY show. This year saw the debut of a new ballroom, which nearly doubled the square footage of the show. The…

Why @gemologue Is Our Favorite Feed of the Month

Londoner Liza Urla (@gemologue) could teach a class in the art of selfies: First, it’s not all about the face; focus on your neck, wrist, or, most important, hands. Second, make the gem the star. Her feed (and corresponding blog) is a jewelry lover’s dream.     (Inset) Close-up on Spark Creations     Feeling blue…

On the Scene at JCK Las Vegas 2016

Veni, Vidi, Vegas! This year’s JCK and LUXURY shows featured top-notch education, numerous social hours, and heaps of awards. They came, they saw, they conquered indeed!   JCK Las Vegas (Top) San Francisco–based Train rocked the beach at the show’s sixth annual Sunday-night beach party.   JCK Las Vegas (Inset) Jewelers Mutual’s Benjamin DeBoer accepts the Think…

De Beers Bids Adieu to Philippe Mellier

Philippe Mellier, the French former auto executive who led De Beers for five profitable but sometimes tumultuous years, has resigned and will be replaced by a well-regarded company veteran, Bruce Cleaver. Mellier, the first outsider to head the mining company, spent five years in his role, the same as his predecessor, Gareth Penny. His departure…

Industry and People, July–August 2016

COMINGS AND GOINGS >>?Target has hired former Nordstrom executive Mark Tritton (pictured) as executive vice president and chief merchandising officer. >>?The World Federation of Diamond Bourses has reelected Ernest Blom to a third consecutive two-year term heading the group. Israel Diamond Exchange president Yoram Dvash was elected vice president; Rony Unterman of Belgium continues as secretary-general. Bharat Diamond Bourse vice president Mehul…

3 Questions for…Scott Burger

Scott Burger, president of the Americas for Pandora, spoke to JCK in June at the company’s elaborate booth at JCK Las Vegas. Burger, a former grocery executive, discussed the brand’s current marketing and retail distribution plans.   JCK: Tell us about Pandora’s new marketing campaign.  Burger: We are launching a new global campaign, “Unique As…

How Plukka Is Setting the Standard for Clicks and Bricks

Joanne Ooi Plukka  plukka.com facebook.com/plukkajewelry Instagram/Twitter: @plukka  “I want to be the Sephora of jewelry,” says Joanne Ooi, founder and creative director of online fine jewelry retailer Plukka. “Sephora only does cosmetics and they have their own stores—and their expertise is peerless.” The aspiration is, of course, sky-high. But Ooi, a longtime brand and marketing expert who…

Ferro Tales: Talking Estate and Custom Work With a Vermont Jeweler

Bryan Ferro Ferro Estate & Custom Jewelers Stowe, Vt.  Co-owner ferrojewelers.com   What makes your store competitive with other jewelry stores in your area? Our focus is distinct. We do estate and high-end custom jewelry. We also do restorations of heirloom pieces and repairs. And we don’t really aspire to be like other jewelry stores; we…

All Roads Lead to Rumanoff’s Fine Jewelry

This 78-year-old Connecticut jeweler balances wholesale and retail with ease and grace Mike Rumanoff Rumanoff’s Fine Jewelry & Design Hamden, Conn. 62, third generation Steve Rumanoff  Rumanoff’s Fine Jewelry & Design Hamden, Conn. 59, third generation Doug Rumanoff  Rumanoff’s Fine Jewelry & Design Hamden, Conn. 36, fourth generation Leslie Rumanoff DeStefano Rumanoff’s Fine Jewelry & Design Hamden, Conn. 29, fourth…

Store We Adore: Sparrow

198 West St., Annapolis, Md. Annapolis, Md., is not known for its edge. Legislators in Maryland’s capital walk the cobblestone streets in conservative suits, their crispness outdone only by the midshipmen in dress whites from the nearby Naval Academy. Boutiques in Colonial-era buildings feature nautical themes. Each spring, local yacht club members burn their socks…

Timber Land: Jewelry to Help You Live the Wood Life

Between shoes, clutches, and now jewels, we’re developing a bit of a pulp addiction. Wood is back in fine jewelry after a too-lengthy hiatus, as designers rediscover its rich hues, fascinating grain patterns, and sturdy nature—ideal for carving and for setting gemstones. Looking for a warm and bohemian accessory? Consider wood a solid choice. (Top) Bangle in cocobolo wood with 18k gold and a…

It’s in the Cannes

Oohing and aahing over summery couture and statement jewels at the annual French film fest Anna Kendrick Between Kirsten Dunst’s ’50s-style lemony day dress, Amal Clooney’s floaty Versace buttercup gown, and Jessica Chastain’s goldenrod Jessica Rabbit–style Armani number, yellow was the clear red-carpet winner at this year’s Cannes Film Festival. Add one more to that…

Elsa Schiaparelli Strikes a Pose in ‘Vogue’ in Suzanne Belperron

Massive. Heavy. Barbaric. Those were the words used to describe the jewels—a pearl necklace held together by gigantic shell-shape clips, a platinum and diamond cuff, and a coordinating diamond-studded black enamel and platinum ring—worn by Madame Elsa Schiaparelli in the September 1933 Vogue. The pieces were designed by Suzanne Belperron, and this image ran in…

Simone Ng’s Emerald Avian Homage to Wallis Simpson

The famously chic Duchess of Windsor, Wallis Simpson, collaborated with houses including Van Cleef & Arpels and Cartier to amass perhaps the most important private jewelry collection in history. “Her style was fantasy and originality—powerful, brightly colored, feminine, and romantic,” says Singapore-based designer Simone Ng, who created this extraordinary emerald-beaded necklace, dubbed Kingfisher Paradise, in…

Silver, July–August 2016: Yael Sonia’s New Men’s Line & More

CAN’T-MISS COLLECTION Prism Break Yael Sonia’s new men’s collection dives deep into sterling silver—for the first time in her career. Originally made largely in 18k gold, the Brazilian designer’s men’s line features liberal amounts of silver with both oxidized and matte silver finishes as well as black and white rhodium plating. “My designs have always…

Bridal, July–August 2016: Rahaminov’s New Shape & More

CAN’T-MISS COLLECTION On the Movál  Taking inspiration from an Edwardian ring circa 1920, the Goldfiner family behind Rahaminov Diamonds has unveiled its new Movál collection. Diamond jewelry designed for brides, the line is composed of ovals (movál refers to an elongated or marquise oval shape) set in platinum and 18k gold. “We like the softness…

Our Ultimate How-To Guide

A real-world approach to issues both broad (creating a covetable corporate culture) and granular (starting your own podcast) You don’t need us to tell you that running a jewelry store is a challenge—especially in 2016. That’s why at JCK, we’re always brainstorming ways to help you do that: features full of practical information you can…

How to Close the Sale

You’ve just spent 45 minutes with a customer, and you know he’s going to buy. But at the last minute he hands you an excuse, and before you know it, he’s heading for the exit. There’s no need to watch the door click shut behind him—there’s a response to every excuse and a way to…

How to Create a Cool Corporate Culture

It’s easy to create a healthy, happy, and winning corporate culture. (Hint: Avoid “Meetings.”) Silicon Valley tech firms might not seem to have very much in common with jewelry stores. After all, you’re not going to set up a foosball table in the showroom or let your salespeople bring their dogs to work, and catering…

How to Pick the Social Network That’s Right for You

An effective social strategy is adaptable, photo-centric—and focused on the channels that matter to your clients Social media strategy. For many small retailers, this phrase inspires anxiety. But creating a blueprint for how and when to engage with your consumers on social media is actually a low-stakes—and potentially high-reward—proposition.  How so? Social media welcomes experimentation,…

How to Start a Podcast

Hardly anyone podcasts about jewelry. Here’s why retailers should see streaming audio as an opportunity. Diamonds and gemstones may be rare, but podcasts covering those subjects are even rarer. Look on iTunes for podcasts that cover technology and you’ll find hundreds. But hunt for jewelry-related podcasts and you’ll come across only a handful. Podcasting has…

How to Stock the Trends

Keep your store filled with straight-from-the-runway jewels by training your eye—and listening to your clients Many fine jewelers are squeamish about stocking trendy styles. Trends, by nature, flame out—so investing in any “hot” look comes with a degree of risk. But adding a smattering of trendy pieces to a collection of largely classic styles can,…

Best in Show: Our Favorite Moments, Stones, and Finds From JCK Las Vegas 2016

Best Gemstone Trend: Iridescence Designers are besotted with the delicate shimmer of opals and moonstones, both of which featured prominently in a slew of collections that debuted during market week. Sutra, Dallas Prince, and Davani all showcased new jewels set with Ethiopian opals, while Arya Esha, Le Vian, and JS Noor introduced lovely lavender and…

Moving Images: Street-Style Photos From JCK Las Vegas 2016

Retailers, designers, exhibitors, and brand bigwigs share their personal Vegas stories and singular style Photographs by Beverly Poppe   (Top) Think of The Art of Diamonds’ Naval Bhandari as the ultimate high-end gem personal shopper. “I look for the very best of the best [for clients],” explained the New York City–based buyer. “I advise them what to…

Ethical Diamonds: Who’s Using Them, Where to Get Them, and Why Customers Want Them

Up until a few months ago, traditional diamond engagement rings were a staple for Tara Silberberg, owner of The Clay Pot, a jewelry boutique with locations in Brooklyn, N.Y., and the Nolita neighborhood of Manhattan. Lately, however, Silberberg has noticed a change in what customers are requesting. “We have four engagement rings in production now…

Shine On You Crazy Diamond

These fun, fashionable pieces prove that diamond jewelry doesn’t have to be a luxury—or reserved for special occasions. Meet your new everyday dazzlers.   SAFETY PINS & LOCKS THE KEY TO YOUR HEART (Top) Diamond pavé heart lock and key necklace in oxidized sterling silver and 14k yellow gold; $388; Zoë Chicco, Los Angeles; 213-489-1226; zoechicco.com   A LOCK…

Olympic Gems: Previewing Feninjer 2016

The 63rd edition of the Feninjer fair in São Paulo, Brazil, takes place Aug. 1–4.   (Above) Butterfly earrings in 18k gold with rubellites and diamonds; $2,698; Paixão Joias, Lagoa Santa, Brazil; 55-31-3689-0092; paixaojoias.com.br     (Inset) Rings in 18k rose gold with black rhodium, amethysts, and brown diamonds; $2,700 (both); Vancox, Belo Horizonte, Brazil; 55-31-3225-0650; vancox.com.br   Ring in 18k gold…

Summer 2016 (and Beyond) With JCK Events

Yancy Weinrich, senior vice president of Reed Jewelry Group, returned from Vegas with a major takeaway: “Fashion and fine jewelry are really coming together,” she says. “We’re seeing that as a real trend.” Weinrich urges buyers to merchandise their stores in keeping with this hybrid mentality, “because it’s the kind of product that appeals directly…

Tool Time, The Goods: July–August 2016

WHO, WHAT, WEARABLE WiseWear Calder Iris Apfel, the nonagenarian New York City style icon, is famous for brick-red lipstick, huge eyeglasses, and stacks and stacks of bold bracelets. Lately those stacks have included a wearable—a smart bracelet from fashion tech brand WiseWear, which tapped the style star to be the face of its Socialite collection.…

Looking for a DIY Web Solution? Try These Tips of the Design Trade

Multimillion-dollar businesses have been built on the premise that only graphic designers and web architects have the know-how to design, build, and manage professional websites.  Yet given enough time, technology simplifies even the most complicated jobs. And when it comes to creating websites, the tools now exist to design and build them yourself—or at least…

Alexandre Reza’s Blue Dream of a Brooch

SOLD FOR: $13,672,493 “Alexandre Reza perfectly understood that jewels are the most personal of decoration.” Alexandre Reza, who died in January, is considered one of the greatest jewelers and gem collectors in modern history. In the mid–20th century, he supplied gems to such firms as Cartier, Boucheron, Harry Winston, and Bulgari before establishing his own brand and…

Party Over Here: Previewing LUXURY Privé 2016

The intimate event returns to NYC’s Waldorf Astoria July 24–26 Buyers heading to the sixth annual LUXURY Privé at New York City’s Waldorf Astoria hotel July 24–26 can look forward to an event that’s equal parts business and pleasure—including a show-sponsored Sunday brunch, complete with live jazz and the Waldorf’s famous bacon-topped Bloody Marys, and…