The rainbow of rich jewel tones found in the traditional costumes of Russian gypsy singers inspired the gemstone selection of Fabergé’s Gypsy Exuberance Bangle, a sculptural piece created by the fabled jewelry house. The performers’ “primitive beauty and soulful performances became a compelling, intoxicating element of Moscow social and cultural life,” says Pia Tonna, director of marketing and communications for Fabergé, which is now headquartered in London. The stunning bracelet marries an open framework with a painterly smattering of sapphires, rubies, tsavorites, spinels, spessartites, garnets, and white diamonds—which also line the inner rims of the bangle’s panels. The design and production of the piece in Fabergé’s Paris ateliers took nearly a year to complete. Ten artisans worked on Exuberance, which hooks together via two invisible clips that open when pushed inwards. The bangle recently sold for $365,803, but at press time, a similar multicolored bracelet was being forged, set for an unveiling in late April at Baselworld.
Fire and Ice
Back-dropped by an 18k yellow gold frame, the undulating bangle is encrusted with 5,003 gemstones: 10.42 cts. t.w. diamonds, 19.2 cts. t.w. sapphires, 6.29 cts. t.w. rubies, 4.62 cts. t.w. tsavorites, 18.53 cts. t.w. spinels, 2.73 cts. t.w. spessartites, and 0.57 ct. t.w. garnets.
The bracelet is part of Fabergé’s Les Fabuleuses collection of handcrafted, one-of-a-kind pieces featuring rare gemstones. Designed by Katharina Flohr, the brand’s creative and managing director, and artist-jeweler Frédéric Zaavy, the line—created to commemorate the 2009 relaunch of Fabergé—pays homage to “the original spirit of the house,” says Tonna. “These pieces are precious heirlooms.”
Fabergé is famous for its bejeweled imperial eggs, which were created for the Russian imperial family between 1885 and 1916. The Fabergé name was diluted in the second half of the 20th century when the brand was sold and its name used to shill discount colognes and other less-lofty products. In 2009, the firm relaunched as a fine jewelry house. Late last year, its new owner, London-based miner Gemfields, vowed to continue its luxury restoration.