French Connection: A Report From the January 2016 Bijorhca Jewelry Show



There is a greenhouse smack in the middle of Bijorhca. But the clear-walled conservatory contains no out-of-season plants; rather, it’s a showcase for spring-summer 2016 trends—and a chance for the French fashion jewelry trade fair, held Jan. 22–25 at Paris Expo Porte de Versailles, to flaunt not only its style savvy but also its most eye-catching designs.

There was Sensuelle Romance (Sensual Romance), which featured vintage-style pearls, lacy gold pieces, and, bien sûr, tiaras; Géométrie Variable (Variable Geometry), a primary color–saturated mix of materials such as Perspex, vinyl, steel, and and resin; Terre de Soleil (Land of Sunshine), an ethnic-infused blend of leather, wood, raffia, and seed beads, all in muted tones; and Escale Exotique (Exotic Interlude), a cheery multihued menagerie of feathers, flora, and fauna.

“The presentation was indeed very impressive,” said Art Wear Dimitriadis designer-owner Eleni Dimitriadi, whose flamboyant necklaces were on display in Exotic Interlude’s garden of earthly brights. “And it had a great impact to customers.” 

Speaking of customers, Bijorhca—which ran alongside like-minded trade shows Premiere Classe (footwear, leather goods, and jewelry) and Who’s Next (ready-to-wear fashion)—saw 12,500 visitors in four days. It’s a drop compared with January 2015 (13,861), but understandable, given the November 2015 attacks in the capital city. Still, there were a few intriguing upticks: a rise in buyers from Korea, India, and the Philippines, plus an 11 percent increase in Middle Eastern attendees.

“We meet visitors from around the world there—Europe, Asia, America,” said Mateusz Zaremski, whose Polish brand, Zaremski, was exhibiting in its fourth Bijorhca. “Paris is considered the capital of fashion, which is an attractive place to visit. Plus there are a few different fairs going on, so it makes even more people come.” The sleek silver and gold vermeil cuffs—which will be on view in the Design Center at JCK Las Vegas—were definite standouts, and an up-market take on the Variable Geometry trend.

Oh, did we mention the DJ? And the disco ball? It felt like a groovy nightclub inside Cream by Bijorhca, a section featuring about 20 of the hippest up-and–coming designers the fair could find. Think tassels, fringe, crochet, and feathers. Lots and lots of feathers.

 

Top: Rio Moon earrings in gold-plated brass with feathers; €135 ($148); Caroline Najman, Paris; 33-95-453-4574; carolinenajman.com; inset: Infinity 50 mm bracelet in gold-plated brushed matte silver; $625; Zaremski, Warsaw, Poland; 48-22-663-9910; zaremski.pl