Cartier, Jaeger-LeCoultre Unite on New Watch

Luxury jeweler-watchmaker Cartier and luxury watchmaker Jaeger-LeCoultre have partnered to create a new movement and a new watch. The 42-mm Pasha de Cartier, unveiled this month in Geneva at the SIHH luxury watch trade show, uses the new 8000 MC automatic calibre created for it by Jaeger-LeCoultre, one of the last Swiss watch companies making its own movements.

The new watch and calibre revive a long relationship between the two brands, now owned by the Geneva-based Richemont luxury products group. “This is like two friends, long separated, coming together again as part of the same family to do something they did so well in old times,” says Stanislas de Quercize, president and chief executive officer of Cartier North America.

The 42-mm Pasha de Cartier—the first of the series (begun in the mid-1930s) made of pink gold and to be so large—is designed around the state-of-the-art calibre. The workshop-crafted movement, 3.85-mm thick, has a 52-hour power reserve and can be wound in both directions. The watch arrives here this summer.

“It’s an amazing watch, demonstrating the fabulous talent of Cartier for outside and the fabulous talent of Jaeger-LeCoultre for the inside,” says de Quercize.

It isn’t unknown for luxury brands to collaborate on special watches, but the connection between Cartier and Jaeger-LeCoultre may be the oldest and longest such partnership. In 1903, Parisian fine jeweler Cartier contracted Alsatian watchmaker Edmond Jaeger for calibres for its nascent watch business, the same year Jaeger and Swiss watchmaker LeCoultre began working together. Over the years, Jaeger and LeCoultre (which merged in 1925, becoming Jaeger-LeCoultre) produced movements for various Cartier timepieces, including the Santos, Tank, eclipse pocket watches, and eight-day watches. Between 1927 and 1979, Jaeger-LeCoultre provided 32 different mechanical calibres for Cartier watch models. The 1970s quartz-movement revolution ended the age of mechanical watch movements and the relationship between Cartier and Jaeger-LeCoultre.

But the 8000 MC calibre for the new Pasha de Cartier has restored that relationship. “We’ve reignited something that’s been part of the history of brand since the birth [of Cartier watches],” says de Quercize.