A View From the Top



Brisk sales in Las Vegas in June suggest a brighter future ahead for the luxury market. Be prepared with some of the latest selections of gorgeous jewels, fresh from the biggest jewelry market week in America.

 

Yael Designs

Lucky Hue: From mosaics and murals to stained glass windows and Middle Eastern carpets—anything with vivid color can provide the starting point for a Yael piece.

Quality Counts: For three consecutive years, Yael has earned manufacturing ­honors in JCK’s Jewelers Choice Awards, a testament to the firm’s high standards. And designer Yehouda ­Saketkhou wants you to see for yourself: “I hand new clients a loupe for them to look at pieces.”

 

Shaill

One-of-a-kind cuff in 18k gold with diamonds and arabesque details; $25,000; Shaill, New York City; 212-995-9107; shaill.com

Detail Work: His 18k gold pieces are decorated with contemporary arabesques and floral motifs; some feature messages in Sanskrit like good health and blessing.

Independent Spirit: The Indian-born artist—who goes by first name only—specializes in sales to independent retailers. “I’ve got 40 or so independent accounts, and am developing clients in India and Europe,” he says.

 

 

 

South Seas baroque pearl in 18k gold with diamonds; $100,000; Baggins, Los Angeles; 877-33-PEARL; bagginspearls.com

Baggins

About a Pearl: Baggins owns an Akoya farm in Vietnam, so the pearls—from variety of colors to the shapes to the luster—serve as inspiration for the designs, which are made in 18k gold with ­gemstones like sapphires.

Keeping With Tradition: For the past six years at JCK Las Vegas, Baggins founder Anil Maloo’s very first appointment is always the same retailer: a southern gentleman who sells more than $200,000 a year in Baggins’ jewelry.

 

 

 

Euphoria Fine Jewelry

Platinum necklace with 106.12 cts. t.w. aquamarines with 11.89 cts. t.w. diamonds; $119,000; Euphoria Fine Jewelry, New York City; 877-921-1970; euphorianewyork.com

Modern-Day Heirlooms: High-quality construction, platinum, and precious gems are Euphoria hallmarks. “The jewelry is as close to being made like it was in the era it emulates,” says Euphoria president Edward Ezgilioglu.

At Your Service: Euphoria specializes in custom jobs—even small ones. Consider the Massachusetts retail client who wanted a .75 ct. t.w. blue zircon ring; Ezgilioglu cut one from rough to make the $2,390 retail sale. “I wanted to make sure the customer called me when she had a bigger special request,” he says.

 

 

 

Harlequin bracelet with golden Philippine South Seas pearls and diamonds in 18k gold; $27,000; Jewelmer, Makati City, Philippines; 632-810-0266; jewelmer.com

Jewelmer

By the (South) Sea: The brand’s golden South Seas pearls from the Palawan province in the Philippines inspire the finished jewelry, reflecting the water, moon, and stars.

Opportunity Knocks: The 30-year-old pearl brand has retail boutiques in the Philippines, Hong Kong, Paris, Dubai, Melbourne, and elsewhere, but Jewelmer isn’t as well known as other pearlers in the U.S.—so sales potential exists for interested U.S. retailers.

 

 

 

Wendy Yue  

18k gold bracelet with natural colored and colorless diamonds and carved jade; $37,000; Wendy Yue at Fragments Showroom, New York City; 212-226-8878; ajackson@fragments.com

Creature Features: Animals, insects, and sea life most inspire the Hong Kong–based designer, who favors colored stones like turquoise and jade, as well as colored diamonds and sapphires.

Smashing Debut: The first-time exhibitor to Couture—Yue’s brand spun off from longtime manufacturer and parent company, ­Diamond Tree—picked up some enviable accounts, including ­Neiman Marcus, Stanley Korshak, and 10 others with locations in San Francisco, Dallas, New York City, and more.

 

 

 

 

Roma Imperiale necklace in 18k gold with amethyst, citrine, quartz, and diamond accents; $5,500; Maria De Toni for Gold Expressions, Vicenza, Italy; 39-04-4475-1347; mariadetoni.it

Maria De Toni for Gold Expressions

Woman of the World: Period detail is of utmost importance in her world culture–inspired 14k–18k gold designs. “In the Roma Imperiale line, the stones are cabochons—not faceted—because that’s what they used in ancient Rome,” explains De Toni, who has also created lines inspired by the Renaissance and the Ottoman Empire.

Fast Sellers: A Los Angeles retailer purchased 20 De Toni pieces at JCK in June, sold them within a month, and quickly reordered more.

 

 

 

Mary Esses

Modern Princess earrings with peach moonstones and orange sapphires in 18k gold; $5,600; Mary Esses, New York City; 917-941-0826; maryesses.com

A Gem of a Country: A native of Brazil, Esses takes full advantage of her homeland’s plentiful supply of gorgeous gemstones, like tourmalines and aquamarines. And since her pieces are partly manufactured there, her prices are fair.

Beginner’s Luck: Esses—who’s been wholesaling for three years—just exhibited in her first trade show this year at ­Couture, where she opened several new accounts. And she’s already acquired a high-profile fan: Michelle Obama. “She wore earrings from my Oceana collection to two different events,” Esses says of the fashionable first lady.