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JCKstyle - February 10, 2006

Fashion Week Serves a Buffet

Sometimes one recurring theme appears amid the flurry of runway shows during New York's Fashion Week. This week, however, the runways served up a full buffet of eras, silhouettes, and colors that was delightful in its variety, if a little incoherent in trend direction.

A few things that most designers included on their plates were:

  • More sparing use of color, with black and taupe the favorite neutrals and a growing interest in cool gray by the likes of
    Peter Som and Derek Lam
  • Blue and red (especially saturated hues) replace green and pink as the colors of choice, from electrifying cobalt at Badgley Mischka to regal reds at Oscar de la Renta
  • Full silhouettes, ranging from flowing empire-waist and pouf-skirt dresses at Monique Lhuillier to bell-sleeve jackets at Tuleh to oversize everything at
    Marc Jacobs
  • Plaid prints ranged from '80s-era red and black mixes at Diane von Furstenberg to Harvard-inspired preppy neutrals at Michael Kors
  • Bracelet-friendly three-quarter sleeves on suit jackets by designers like Carolina Herrera
Standout collections to watch for possible shifts in design ahead:
  • Marc Jacobs revisited his grunge period, albeit a bit more gracefully than the first time, with oversize layers and flannel plaids
  • Diane von Furstenberg channeled a 1980s (via the 1940s), with a Working Girl vibe filled with strong shoulders, strong prints, and boxier jackets
  • Anna Sui took a fresh take on the 1960s with grown-up jumpers, ruffle-front blouses, and patterned shirtdresses
Weekly Gem:
Timed to coincide with and tap into the energy of Fashion Week, New York jeweler Udi Behr launched two innovative new collections. Though similar in concept to his Love and Pride collection targeting same-sex couples, these ride on the popularity of two television shows. In an unusual licensing agreement between the jeweler and Showtime, the collections are named The L Word and Queer as Folk, and feature designs aimed at the gay and lesbian market.


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