Posted on January 21, 2011
While VicenzaOro First does provide a peek at styles to expect for the year ahead, this year’s fair didn’t feature a lot of new jewelry. Like last year, many vendors said they were waiting until Baselworld to unveil new collections. And some vendors had already unveiled some new looks at the September fair, VicenzaOro Choice—a venue known to attract mainly Italian shoppers; that's where Roberto Coin had debuted his Nemo collection, inspired by Disney’s animated fish film.
A bracelet from Roberto Coin's Nemo collection
At Roberto Coin in Hall B1, which houses Italy’s most high-profile brands, the extra-wide range of price points unveiled one year ago were still in effect, and had not dropped further—perhaps an indication that business is stabilizing. Coin showed a few additions to his Haute Couture collection, including oversize gemstone cluster rings in green, orange, pink, and blue hues, octopus-motif rings and bracelets, and a massive 66.80 cts. t.w. rutilated quartz ring with diamonds for $13,000.
A 66.80 cts. t.w. rutilated quartz ring with diamonds for $13,000
Octopus rings from Roberto Coin
New Roberto Coin gemstone rings from the Haute Couture collection
Design house AnnaMaria Cammilla, which unveiled price points as low as $1,000 last year, met with buyers from Russia, Asia, and the Middle East at this fair, but no Americans. The firm expects to see those clients as an exhibitor at JCK Las Vegas this year, but hopes other Europeans make the trip as well. “Russia and the Middle East spend the most,” said a spokesperson at the booth.
Floral-motif jewels from AnnaMaria Cammilla
Close-up: floral ring form AnnaMaria Cammilla
Other vendors also anticipated American business to surface in the months ahead: “Americans come to Basel and Vegas,” said Andrea Pinato, a designer for Luca Carati. Pinato unveiled the Voila pendant, a convertible pendant necklace in 18k gold and gemstones starting at $5,423. “Voila will evolve for Basel,” he added.
The new Voila convertible pendant from Luca Carati
The Voila pendant from Luca Carati is available in yellow gold with pink sapphires or white gold with blue sapphires; it collapses from a long oval pendant to a compact floral-motif form
Firms like Giorgio Visconti, Staurino, and Garavelli remarked on the continuing popularity of the black-and-white color scheme for Americans, while pink gold—particularly with champagne diamonds—is growing in appeal to Europeans. “We are seeing a strong comeback for rose gold,” said Staurino co-owner Stefano Staurino, adding that it lends a “more romantic touch.” To appeal to those buyers, Staurino offers an 18k gold alloy with a greater percentage of copper and a new hand-chiseled finish (available in its Stardust collection) that plays up rose tones. "We had a good Christmas, with better pieces selling," said Elisabetta Molina, owner, Garavelli. In particular, big rings with large stones sold well in the $5,000 and up range. "Consumers are buying pieces with value," she added.
Black and white jewels (popular among American shoppers) from Garavelli
New rings in rose gold from Staurino
Meanwhile, the color trend—in gemstones, enamel, and metals—continues. Leaderline within the Blue White Group once again showed treated silver, this year in peach and yellow as well as blue, Garavelli showed elongated cuts of turquoise and hematite in rings and earrings, and the Fifth Season (from Roberto Coin) showed numerous enamel and gold styles with youthful appeal.
Enamel and 18k gold jewels from the Fifth Season
Close-up: The Fith Season jewels (the Peacock necklace retails for $9,500)
Overall, most new styles at the show featured vibrant color, animal motifs, rose gold with champagne diamonds, and flowers.
Colored silver jewels from Leaderline, part of the Blue White Group
Close-up: Colored silver ring from Leaderline
Kallie · 20 hours ago