Where Are All the Black Jewelry Designers?
When Vogue Italia came out with its A Black Issue featuring all non-white models in July 2008, shot by masterful American photographer Steven Meisel, to make a point about racism and underutilized black talent in the fashion industry (see The Independent and The New York Times), I unfortunately thought about our industry.
Vogue Italia’s July 2008 gatefold cover.
From left: Liya Kebede, Sessilee Lopez, Jourdan Dunn, and Naomi Campbell
Photo: Steven Meisel for Italian Vogue
Photo via The New York Times, Beautiful Is Beautiful
Naomi Campbell on Vogue Italia
Photo: Steven Meisel for Italian Vogue
Photo via Jezebel.com
Why? Well, I came back from the JCK ~ Las Vegas Show in June, then attended JA New York in July, and booth after booth, all I saw were white faces: Where are all the black jewelry designers?
JCK recently featured industry dynamo Russell Simmons in our June issue (click here to read), and Luxury spotlighted Chris Aire in our 2005 Designer Issue. But by and large, the designers we profile are on the lighter side of the color spectrum—that’s where the pool seems to be. But is it? (I’m happy to say that we’re diversified in our model castings and photo selections.)
Russell Simmons on the cover of JCK June 2008
Model Liya Kebede and jewelry designer Chris Aire recently teamed up during Aire’s fashion show at the ThisDay Africa Rising Music & Fashion Festival in the Kennedy Center in Washington, D.C.
Photo by Chris Jackson/Getty Images North America
Photo via Zimbio.com
Donna Chambers’ booth was a breath of fresh air in Vegas. I stopped by to look at her ancient mother-of-pearl gaming chips. She’s a talented lady who’s been in the industry a while. But where are all the others?
There are a few celebrities in our midst: Seal (Heidi Klum’s hubby) launched his line for Mouawad at JCK ~ Las Vegas, and New York socialite Genevieve Jones has an eponymous high-end line that looks promising. Home shopping networks QVC and HSN both have representation from African-American jewelry designers, but mostly in fashion or costume. Cynthia Garrett (Lenny Kravitz’s sis) is on The Q, while HSN landed supermodel/entrepreneur (and David Bowie’s better half) Iman with her Global Chic line and Miss Tina by Tina Knowles (Beyoncé’s mom).
But in addition to fashion’s runway and the jewelry industry’s trade shows, black models are all-too absent in jewelry advertising. Not so in the fashion world. VI’s A Black Issue sent shockwaves through the fashion industry, and Stefano Pilati at YSL is riding the wave (YSL already has a history of presenting a multicultural runway), featuring Naomi Campbell in the Manifesto campaign for the new Fall/Winter collection, shot by Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin. Gorgeous.
Screen grab of the Naomi Campbell in the YSL Manifesto campaign
Photo via YSL.com
Though watch companies fare better (Movado’s brand ambassadors include jazz maestro Wynton Marsalis, actress Kerry Washington, and baseball’s Derek Jeter), the jewelry industry needs to take note. Jewelry assumes different qualities against varying skin tones, and looks lucious on all. Yet we only see jewels on white skin in ads. Why?
Need convincing? You have only to look at Meisel’s VI images to see the intrinsic beauty of black women, and the (selling!) power of their skin.
Naomi Campbell for Vogue Italia
Photo: Steven Meisel for Italian Vogue
Photo via The New York Times, Beautiful Is Beautiful
Sessilee Lopez for Vogue Italia
Photo: Steven Meisel for Italian Vogue
Photo via SessileeLopez.blogspot.com
Photo: Steven Meisel for Italian Vogue
Photo via The New York Times, Beautiful Is Beautiful
Tyra, PhotoShop’d (amateurishly, by moi) with a Mikimoto pearl earring…can’t you see it?
Girl With a Pearl Earring | Johannes Vermeer, circa 1665 to 1667
Photo via FineArtPrintsOnDemand.com
I applaud Vogue Italia for its statement but also for its execution of undeniably beautiful and incomparable photography. I write this at the end of New York Fashion Week, happy to have seen somewhat less whitewashed runways. But for our industry, too, I hope to see a more colorful populace (in person at trade shows, in magazines, and in advertising). After all, according to the U.S. Census Bureau, 40.2 million is, "as of July 1, 2006, the estimated population of black residents in the United States, including those of more than one race. They made up 13.4 percent of the total U.S. population." (Source: Population estimates.)
- If you’re a black designer, weigh in! Do you attend trade shows? If not, tell us why.
- If you’re involved with marketing and collateral, do you use black models in advertising campaigns? Yes? Give us a link. No? Tell us your honest thoughts.
- And if you’re a jewelry enthusiast who knows of some great black talents who don’t get much ink, use this post as a forum to highlight that talent.
Above all, let’s share, discuss, and heed the Mahogany Model Management campaign VI spawned,
Mahogany Model Management’s Black But Invisible campaign
Photo via MahoganyModelManagement.com
dabanga commented:
I've been designing & making jewelry for the past 15 years and during this time I've done the BMAC a wholesale craft show in Phila. and for many years there were only 3 people of colour Sandy baker, Donna Chambers & myself Dabanga, and finally I ended up being alone, becasue Donna & Sandy went in different directions as far as markets were concerned.
Rita commented:
Hi. Thanks for the inquiry. I am an African American female designer, Jeweler, watchsmith, who also has a concentration in casting and polishing. I live in Atlanta, ga. I have my own shop. Yes, I do agree that many African Americans wear lovely Jewelry but not enough of us are majoring in the field. Does anyone want to share their thoughts with me about this subject? Also, A society or organization for Black Jewelers/ Metalsmiths should be created.I can always be reached via email at mcmorris7@hotmail.com or by phone at 404 207 5622. Thanks..
fran commented:
jacqueline rabun, black american desinger based in london
raspysunny@yahoo.com commented:
I can't believe I'm reading this!! Thank you! Thank you! Thank you!
I have been in the manufacturing industry for 7 years as a sales
assistant. I have been a GIA student since 2003 (Diamond Grading).
Started designing jewelry as of last year. I would really
appreciate any kind of advice on opening my own gallery. Even more,
just rocking this industry! Even though I have rubbed elbows with
people in the industry, (not african american) advice, and help was
always avoided and ignored. It is then I decided to learn this
industry on my own. As an African American Woman this is my dream.
To defeat all odds. There is enough room in this industry for
EVERYONE. My future studies... Jewelry Business Management, G.G.
I'd appreciate any feedback, advice, kind words, anything. Please
contact me at raspysunny@yahoo.com
Nina Basharova commented:
Where exactly were Black Fashion designers on inaugural night? Why
First Lady chose to wear that rather unmemorable (in my words-
awful)dress on one of the most important events in recent
history?One of the most stunning opportunities missed. Another
point is that I was personally approached by one of our industry
VIP's with an advice of not to feature "ethnic" models in ads. The
jewelry industry is far more conservative than fashion.Brides are
always blond is ads...
sharpejay@verizon.net commented:
One Jewelry Designer is in Richmond Virginia, known as JAY SHARPE!
He's been designing jewelry for close to twenty years! Visit the
website www.jaysharpe.com and see what this brother has been doing.
He and his family founded the company in 1990 as he was graduating
from VCU with a Fine Arts Degree. Jay's jewelry has been around the
world, even to China. Jay creates one of a kind pieces for all who
dare. He's a fluent artist, designer, teacher, mentor, spokesperson
at colleges and a well grounded person. Call us at 804 353-4733 -
10:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. Tuesdays - Saturday. Voted the best
designer in Richmond Magazine in 2004,one of the best place's to
shop in the upcoming issue of Southern Living's Magazine 2009 March
issue, designed ornament for the Bush's Family Christmas tree in
2007. We work with our clients from all across the United States
via fax designs, email designs and just trusting Jay's designs.
Give us a call and we will be happy to speak with you. The Black
Designer has been here as quiet as it is kept!
deborah lee commented:
Hi, my name is Deborah Lee I have been designing jewelry for the
past 28 yrs. I graduated from FIT in NYC in 1981. My mom owned a
boutique in NJ when i was 9 she started buying Sandy Baker jewelry
back in the late 60's. My love of jewelry started then , I have
posed this question to my friends are there any other black
jewelers or designers on the scene. My kids are now grown and I'm
working on a ligne hope to see you out there in 2010 my email
deborahdlee2@yahoo.com
Tamra commented:
Hi, I'm a black jewelry designer and metalsmith as well. Thank you
for this post! This is one question that I pondered for a while
when I first got started in this business. You can view my work at
www.agjewelrydesign.com (I'm currently working on a new website, so
this one is not quite up to date); and, I am a seller on Etsy and
my sellernames are agjewelrydesign and tgendesignstudio. Again,
thank you SO much for this post! BTW, Glenn Lewis is another very
talented black jewelry designer. www.glennlewis.com
Pam commented:
I am a Black jewelry designer based in Atlanta. I invite you all to
view my work on my website, www.pambranchdesigns.com. My jewelry is
inspired by the close ties that I have with my family. Each of my
lines is named after a loved one. Whether the piece is wire-wrapped
or soldered, whether it is adorned with glass beads or
semi-precious stones, my jewelry is a reflection of my family's
love, support and, and more than anything else, their wit.
kofii kofii commented:
I am a black jewelry designer. I am working on a fine jewelry line.
Take a look at some of my work. www.aakofii.com I am budgeting to
do my first trade show in 2010. I am aakofii THE JEWELRY DESIGNER.
I would appreciate any advice that you would like to offer.
bette commented:
I am a young black jewelry deisigner and I would like to see
articles about people who represent ME. No better time for CHANGE.
Jaszy commented:
I am so glad that I found this post! Thank you, thank you, thank
you! I am a fashion jewelry designer with a focus on offering
eco-conscious alternatives. Although I am African-American and
completely applaud your article, I find that it's unfortunate that
it still comes down to black and white. There are Native American,
Asian and other designers that are also overlooked. The more we
bring the focus to black vs white, the discrepency will remain.
Feature articles that celebrate all ethnicities would be just as
welcomed.
LaNorma Hopes commented:
Thank you Toni for addressing this topic. I am a up and coming
black jewelry designer with an online jewelry boutique named
Signature Designs by LaNorma(www.signaturesbylanorma.com). I
started my business less than a year ago and I am trying to get
more exposure in to the fashion/jewelry market by showcasing in
various events. It is learning process trying to gain exposure and
recognition in this industry. I have often wondered what does it
take to be exposure in the various fashion and style magazines. You
bring up a good point.
Helen commented:
Finally someone has the courage to address this issue head on with
intelligence. A lot of black designers don't exhibit because we
can't. We in the industry know that this is a big problem but
everyone ignores it and doesn't talk about it. Thank you Ms. Rumore
for speaking out and not following the pack.
Helen commented:
Finally someone has the courage to address this issue head on with
intelligence. A lot of black designers don't exhibit because we
can't. We in the industry know that this is a big problem but
everyone ignores it and doesn't talk about it. Thank you Ms. Rumore
for speaking out and not following the pack.
Carrie Soucy commented:
I'm glad to see so much interest in this subject. Regarding
comments/questions about breaking into the market or getting press
coverage in JCK magazines... As the editor of JCKstyle and Luxury,
and having covered the market for more than a decade, I have the
same advice for designers of all races, ages, religions, genders,
nationalities, etc.: Jennifer Heebner and I work the jewelry trade
shows, scour press kits, go on market visits, etc., to find the
jewelry readers see in our pages. We love to see great new jewelry
design, as do our readers. What we look for is interesting design,
craftsmanship, cohesive collections, and the resources/ability to
produce a wholesale line for a retail account. If a designer, ANY
designer, wants to break into the market, he or she should be
exhibiting at jewelry shows, submitting press materials to editors,
etc. Visibility is key.
sandra commented:
I have seen alot of skill black jewely designers as well as black
jewelers. On person that does both is Hershal Wiggins Designs at:
argentium1.etsy.com and his site that he is working on:
hershalwigginsdesigns.com. GREAT artical
sandra commented:
I have seen alot of skill black jewely designers as well as black
jewelers. On person that does both is Hershal Wiggins Designs at:
argentium1.etsy.com and his site that he is working on:
hershalwigginsdesigns.com. GREAT artical
hw commented:
Where are all the black jewelry designer, right in front of you?
Thank you so much Ms. Rumore, thank you so much. It is your bravery
and courage, which just might start the change, even in this field,
to include all Americans. We are not at the big shows because we
can’
ppf commented:
Thank you for writing this!
cocoablossom commented:
I am a designer, but don't know how to break in to the industry.
I'm glad there is an article talking about Black designers. As one
myself, It helps to know that there is genuine interest. Thanks
Toni commented:
I appreciate all of the thoughtful comments and look forward to
discovering some new (to me) designers, so keep your ideas coming!
Participate here on our blogs, or send snail mail to JCK at 360
Park Avenue South | 17th Floor | New York, NY 10010
Marlon commented:
Brava Ms. Rumore, your article is exceptionally informative, well
written and creative! I, for one look forward to future posts by
you on such timely issues.
jtk commented:
Very interesting topic especially in the context of the current
political environment.
Hedda Schupak commented:
We've discussed this issue many times at JCK and I've written an
editorial on it as well. This industry isn't entirely
Caucasian--lots of Indians and Asians in it--but I have often
wondered "where are all the black jewelry store owners?" I see many
African-American women wearing beautiful fine jewelry, and one
would assume that the proportion of black storeowners vs. white
storeowners would be relative to the general population, but we
don't seem to see many African-American jewelers at the mainstream
jewelry shows, and I don't recall meeting many at the various
association-driven events, either. As for designers, I've known
both Donna Chambers and Sandy Baker for years, and they're lovely
ladies and great designers. Sandy, incidentally, is not showing at
mainstream jewelry shows anymore but she's very much in business
and was a featured speaker at GIA Career Fair in New York this
summer. And Russell Simmons, whom I'm getting to know on the
Diamond Empowerment Fund advisory board, is an amazing man. As for
black models in JCK, when I was fashion editor 10 years ago, I
tried to find some, but the only ones available in our price range
were very light-skinned. This was before Alek Wek became popular,
so it might be different now.
YoungFamilyJeweler commented:
Thank goodness for Ms. Rumore! I'd love to see a Luxury profile on
a fellow african-american. When can we expect that? Not from
nothing, having Mr. Simmons on the cover of JCK and at Vegas was
great, but you have to admit that the pages of your own magazines
are pretty lilly white. Models do count for something, but why use
models when there are enough people in our industry that could
grace your pages?
Liz Mannette commented:
Thanks for this very interesting article. I've recently launched my
jewelry line that pays homage to the rhythmic music of steel drums
which my family pioneered in the Caribbean island of Trinidad. I
have not exhibited at a trade show yet because of cost, and I am
still developing the Collection. But look out for me at 09 events.
I use black, white and mixed race models because they represent my
market. You can view the models and my designs at lizmannette.com.
Metalcyberspace commented:
My favorite is Art Smith from the 50's. b.Oct. 28, 1917 NY NY
USA-d.Feb.20, 1982 NY NY USA I have the catalog of his
retrospective with more info about him and of course lots of
photos. Question for you. Where are all the black jewelry editors?
StyleCouncil commented:
This is definitely a point that needs to be addressed in the
fashion world. Excellent post and as usual the Italians are ahead
of everybody.
Cindy Edelstein commented:
Let's not forget the amazing Sandy Baker -- now in her 30th year in
business. She started with gold jewelry and now has taken the
boutique world by storm. And then we've got newcomers like Opal
Stone and Felicia Grey of Haru.
