Let's Not Confuse The Issue

Over the holiday weekend, I received an email from Antoinette Matlins, a professional gemologist and author. She was concerned about an article that appeared on JCKOnline, and how the author (not a JCK staff member, I’m happy to say!) wrongly defines a diamond simulant.

Here is what Matlins wrote to me, reprinted with her permission.

In today's issue of JCK online, there is a link to an article by Melanie Spark–
Blood Diamonds: What You Can Do To Ensure You're Purchasing A Conflict Free Diamond Jewelry
Source: ezinearticles.com Date: Dec 24, 2006
I'm concerned that retailers who read this article will be inadvertently misled. Melanie Spark's article, overall, was OK, but her closing paragraph is factually incorrect. She states:
<<IF diamonds. natural like feel and look to made are that diamonds man zirconias Cubic simulants. zirconia cubic is alternative your diamonds, conflict industry diamond the support want not do truly you If alternative. an there despair, guarantee, a provide retailer find cannot>>
       She is correct that cubic zirconia (CZ) is a "simulant" but in the next sentence she refers to it as "man made diamond." This is not correct. I'm writing to you because I think it's important to make sure that retailers understand the difference so that they better understand what they are buying and selling, and not use the terms  indiscriminately with consumers. This would be not only confusing but misleading.
         Cubic zirconia, CZ, is a "simulant" as Ms. Sparks says initially. The term "simulant" is another word for "imitation" and either of these terms can be used interchangeably. They simply mean that the stone, whatever it is, is not  "real" but is something made to look like a rarer,more valuable gem. Simulants are easy to make, usually very inexpensive, and quite easy to separate from the the 'real thing,' often with the eye alone.
       Ms. Sparks goes on to say that CZ is a "man made diamond." This is not correct. "Man made diamonds" do exist in today's market, but CZ is not one of them. The proper term for "man made diamond" is "lab created" or "synthetic." These terms can also be used interchangeably. But the most significant difference between a "simulant" such as CZ, and a "lab-created" diamond is that CZ is not  a diamond and a lab-created diamond is diamond. 
       This is an important distinction. The terms "man made diamond, synthetic diamond, or lab created diamond" all convey the same thing: that they are created in a laboratory with essentially the same physical, chemical and optical properties as diamonds created in the earth. They are, in fact, diamond. The means by which they are produced is more complex and much more costly than what goes into creating a simulant such as CZ. They are also very difficult to distinguish from natural diamonds and require sophisticated testing usually available only in major gem-testing laboratories.
       In my professional opinion, CZ is the best and most affordable diamond "simulant/imitation" available, and as Ms. Spark points out, "conflict free" (as are lab-created diamonds) but it is NOT a "man made diamond." They make a lovely diamond alternative, and are much more affordable than lab-created diamonds, but it's important that Ms. Sparks and your readers understand the difference between a simulant and a "lab-created" diamond since both exist in the marketplace and indiscriminate use of the terms is misleading and confusing. 
       I hope this helps clarify the terms and better communicate what CZ is.

Matlins is right. Perhaps the words “simulant” and “synthetic” are confusing because both begin with s and both have similar vowel sounds, but they are very different things and it’s critical for retailers to be able to explain the difference to consumers. And the FTC should also be vigilant in monitoring online sites that offer diamond simulants to make sure they’re not calling them synthetic diamonds. But the FTC is probably understaffed and overwhelmed, so it’s also incumbent upon any industry member who sees such an error to report it to the FTC or to the Jewelers’ Vigilance Committee.

Good-quality CZ is a beautiful substitute for diamond. So for that matter, is moissanite. Both have their place in the market, and there’s no reason why a woman can’t have all these different products in her jewelry box. But neither is a diamond, and no consumer should ever be misled into thinking it’s the same thing as a synthetic diamond.