De Beers’ U.S. Marketing: How Much Is it Changing the Game?
My post about De Beers cutting its U.S. marketing, and JWT’s diamond account losing 11 employees, has gotten some interesting reactions.
Most emailers see it as a pretty serious blow to the American market. With the U.S. jewelry market not likely to grow much over the next year, they think De Beers now wants to spend its money in growing economies, like India and China, with greater upside potential. And, of course, De Beers can introduce the Forevermark in China and India. It can’t (so far) do that here.
Still the American market is important enough that cutbacks always seemed unthinkable. It’s almost as if we are seeing the beginning of the end of the era when America unquestionably ruled the diamond market.
Keep in mind, even with this reduction, De Beers is still spending lots of money in the U.S. But it will now spend that money where it is most cost-effective – in targeting men (as opposed to women), in fourth quarter advertising (as opposed to year-round), and in public relations (the Diamond Information Center didn’t lose anyone in the cutbacks.) Which isn’t to say that advertising to females, or year-round, is wrong – it’s just that, in lean times, JWT has to be more selective. (Strangely, though, the DTC plans to keep advertising its female-targeted right hand ring.) And things like trade outreach (the DPS) seem to be relics of the past.
The big question is what will happen to the “beacons,” the DTC-introduced products (right hand ring, Journey) that have driven the market. DTC spokeswoman Lynette Gould told me:
Beacon products will be supported differently in 2008; they feature in advertising but not as the primary message. We believe the Beacon stories are well entrenched particularly with the female audience, but that in tough economic times, the man needs a more direct ‘call to action’ message to counter any inertia which could well be the barrier to actual purchase.
Well, some “beacons” certainly are well known. But “Journey” is not even a two-year-old campaign. And, suffice it to say, introducing new “beacons” doesn’t seem to be on the drawing board.
All of which brings me to the Forevermark, where most of my correspondents seem to think De Beers plans to throw its marketing weight. Certainly past public statements indicate that. Here is what DTC managing director Varda Shine said just last week:
The Forevermark will become a universal brand … the definitive point of reference in the industry and in the minds of consumers.
Now I’ve had reservations about the Forevermark. So far it’s had some success in China and Hong Kong, but those are very brand-receptive areas. Will middle class Americans pay a premium for diamonds with a microscopic etching they can’t see? What value does the Forevermark add, that, say, a lab report doesn’t? These are questions that haven’t been answered. Before the Forevermark is slated to be a “universal brand,” shouldn’t it be tested in a bigger section of the universe?
The Forevermark has potential, but the “beacons” and generic advertising have a proven record in the U.S., and the Forevermark does not. I am reminded of the book “Good to Great,” whose author, Jim Collins, spoke at the AGS Conclave last year. He said companies that go from “good to great” implement change through “an organic evolutionary process.”
But companies that change for the worse (on what he calls the “doom loop”):
Implement big programs, radical change efforts, dramatic revolutions, chronic restructuring – always looking for a miracle movement or new savior.
No one can blame De Beers for looking at the big picture. But sometimes I think things might be better for all concerned if it simply slowed down.
Sushil Choksey commented:
This is a wake up call for the industry. DTC is looking after it's
own interest and is working towards a model where it derives the
maximum return on it's resources. We (retailers and manufacturers)
need to be custodians of our own fate. Simply put -we need to work
collectively to promote the joy of diamonds. Like the cotton
trade.."Fabric of our Lives" or the Milk folks campaign "Got Milk?"
Ms. Schupak suggestion are all a part of the process. Too long as a
trade we have tied our fortune to the machinations of an
organization whose individual goal do not match the collective goal
of the trade. We all need to move forward in a creative fashion and
see how we can add value to the consumer purchase which is beyond
quantifiable measures and therby creating value for ourselves.
Hedda Schupak commented:
I find it peculiarly ironic that just as the American jewelry
industry is suddenly saying, "wait a minute, the tried-and-true
isn't working like it used to," the DTC marketing is taking a step
back, not forward. De Beers has always been a leader, and now
suddenly it's in full retreat mode? The zeitgeist I'm sensing is
that people are finally realizing something big needs to change in
the way jewelry is marketed and sold and the products that are
promoted, and are looking for a "blue ocean." Anyone who's read
enough of my editorials knows how firmly I believe in the female
self-purchase fashion customer as the best growth opportunity for
this industry, and believe the future health of the industry hinges
on capturing that customer along with the traditional gift
customer. Women make 85% of all household purchasing decisions, and
influence 95% of all household purchasing decisions. It would be
insane to think that women aren't saying "I'd like a GPS for
Christmas," or an iPhone, or whatever, and that these wishes didn't
have something to do with the holiday jewelry sales results. Ken
Gassman did a great exercise comparing the jewelry circulars to the
electronics circulars, and the gizmos were far more exciting than
jewelry of the same price. In my opinion, not marketing to women is
a huge mistake, and not focusing on enough new and interesting
product to make them want it is a huge mistake. Of course, the
classic definition of business insanity is doing what you've always
done and expecting a different result.


















