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Warren Buffett's Growing Jewelry Empire

November 7, 2007

With the news that the Richline Group, part of Warren Buffett’s Berkshire Hathaway holding company, has purchased Alarama, it seems that Warren Buffett is expanding his jewelry empire.

Among the names under the Richline umbrella: Bel Oro, Auarafin, Sardelli, Oro America, Pace Designs, Michael Anthony, Silver Bell, Gold Expressions, and Baby Gold — and now Alarama. (ALA Castings and Overnight Mountings will remain separate companies.)   Buffett clearly did not get into this business to do something small, and wants to cobble together a mega-supplier (even if marketing and sales for all the companies will remain independent, at least for the time being.)  More acquisions are apparently in the offing, including designers. (They don’t seem too interested in purchasing diamond companies or sightholders, wanting to focus more on finished jewelry.)

One thing Richline CEO Dennis Ulrich stressed to me: Richline will have an "arms-length" relationship with B-H’s other jewelry properties: Retailers Ben Bridge, Borsheim’s and Helzberg’s. "They will deal with us like they deal with any other supplier," he said. This has always puzzled people I spoke to in the market. Why wouldn’t all B-H’s jewlery companies work together?

But after speaking to informed sources about the relationship between retailer Four Points (now in Chapter 11) and diamond company LID — which both have the same owner (David Elishayov, a.k.a Lev Leviev’s brother-in-law) — it seems that having a retailer and manufacturer under the same umbrella is not always a winning combination. The products LID was producing were not necessarily appropriate for Four Points, and LID was hurt in the marketplace by the association. Four Points was also, I hear, hampered by not having executives with jewelry experience, and producing its marketing materials in-house. (There is some very good chatter about the company in the comments here.)  In addition, creditors think that LID’s own problems — it is currently in Chapter 11, but has an agreement with its banks — played a role in Four Points’ current problems. The people at FPC have not returned my calls, but I will let you know when they do. (I should also add that the people at LID New York — whose CEO, Lyle Rose, resigned about a month ago – say they are up and running, and not impacted by what is going on at FPC.)

Of course, the jury is still out on the Gitanjili’s acquisition of Samuels, but it’s worth noting that Gitanjili was widely rumored as  a bidder for Alarama.

Posted by Rob Bates on November 7, 2007 | Comments (3)

November 8, 2007
In response to: Warren Buffett's Growing Jewelry Empire
Homer commented:

There's a reason that manufacturers are manufacturers, retailers are retailers, and designers are designers. Some people can manage wearing more than one hat, but just throwing them all into the same company and expecting synergy to magically emerge is more likely to produce insprational material for "Dilbert" than long-term success.


November 7, 2007
In response to: Warren Buffett's Growing Jewelry Empire
Former Brendan commented:

Everyone always thinks that it's a fantastic idea to have a manufacturer own or be connected to a retail jewelry chain, and at first I thought it was great too. However, to me it makes some sense that Richline doesn't want to "cut a deal" for the retail jewelers in Berskhire Hathway. If Sterling or Zales (or worse yet, WalMart) find out (and they always do) that Helzberg is getting the same gold chain at half the price, Richline could stand to lose those very large gold chain orders while, at the same time, getting less money from the Helzberg order due to the price cut. As for LID and FPC, that's just a mess that never made any sense. The merchandise LID was producing (Diavante, 18k micropave) never sold because of its high price and designer styling, while merchandise that was a proven seller (lower quality diamonds studs for example) was never available (and never came from LID either). Regarding the marketing in-house: there was practically no marketing, and the few small catalogs made were either based on what items the company had the most of (what wasn't selling), or ads were for high-end pieces only found in certain stores. Buffet won't let the success of a company like Ben Bridge suffer by changing its proven sellers.


November 7, 2007
In response to: Warren Buffett's Growing Jewelry Empire
Willie L. commented:

Warren Buffet knows exactly what he's doing. His model is to get the best people/companies and then let them run autonomously. Many companies talk about "synergies," but few can execute successfully. Perhaps the "arms length" approach is wiser.

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