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Can Brands Go Upscale?
May 9, 2008


A recent post on a blog called "Branding Strategy Insider" argues that it's impossible for companies to go "upscale" (and mentions Zale.)

This is becoming a big issue for our industry. Chains (yes, including Zale) are looking into going upscale to avoid getting in price wars with Wal Mart. And independents are trying to go upscale to avoid competing with chains, Blue Nile, and the rest.

I will agree that, as with most things in life, going uphill is harder than going down. But I think it can be done. I would consider Kay an example of a jeweler that has much better consumer and trade perception today than when I started in this business. 

I've also seen it happen. My old neighborhood -- the East Village -- used to have a number of very quaint Eastern European diners. As the neighborhood gradually gentrified, you began to see these diners get transformed. They got face-lifts to look more modern. They began adding "funkier" menus. They sent out a different message, to meet the changing clientele. Sometimes they would serve the same food, just charge extra for it. After all, they were now not just diners. They were coffee shops.

So I do think it is possible ... however, it requires more than just putting better merchandise in the same cases. It involves giving stores face-lifts, sending out a different message -- essentially re-branding yourself, letting people know "this isn't your father's jewelry store." Which isn't easy. But I'm not sure it can't be done.


Posted by Rob Bates on May 9, 2008 | Comments (3)


May 9, 2008
In response to: Can Brands Go Upscale?
Mall Jewelry Boy commented:

Sterling very slowly changed Kay's merchandise through their "pull" method of merchandising. While Zale "pushed" higher quality and trendier jewelry on all of their customers in all of their stores, Sterling gradually tested merchandise and responded to consumer demand. It's much slower and less dramatic than "push" merchandising, and won't have the amazing results a successful push might cause in regards to sales, but it's much safer. Zale was overconfident as their "push" merchandising pulled Gordon's from low-end to middle market (just above Zales in pricing) and boosted the chain's average ticket much higher; they hadn't realized how consumers would react to "The Diamond Store" suddenly changing. Of course Sterling also built up Kay through intense marketing and store refurbishment...and by combining the strength of the original Sterling regional brands. When I think about re-branding, I think about Target, a place I used to hate shopping at because it was always cluttered and understocked. Now I am much more likely to shop at Target and no longer dislike going there. But it has taken me years and years of not shopping at Target to finally go back. "Upping" a brand is a lot of hard work, and will often cause a lot of pain in the short term, but it is sometimes possible if you go slowly.




May 12, 2008
In response to: Can Brands Go Upscale?
Homer commented:

Honestly, I haven't been out of college *that* long, and I've still lost count of the number of times I've seen vendors do things that were hitherto considered impossible. Ten years ago, people would have told you it was impossible to sell diamonds over the internet because customers needed the hand-holding and the diamonds right in front of them. Then Blue Nile, Pricescope, et al. turned the whole industry upside down almost overnight. The post is correct that moving is hard, but impossible? Come on, nowadays, I'm firmly convinced that NOTHING is impossible in marketing; it's just about finding the right approach. MJB has an excellent example with Kay. They're not Tiffany, but they've successfully pulled a "Target" on Zale's Wal-Mart approach.




May 13, 2008
In response to: Can Brands Go Upscale?
Hedda Schupak commented:

A brand has to be willing to commit to the strategy for the long term--decades, even--and be willing to endure the short-term pain. If not, it ends up schizophrenic, standing for nothing, and failing all its customers. I offer as an example the late Strawbridge & Clothier, one of Philadelphia's strongest homegrown department stores. A better-middle brand (competing roughly in the Macy's-level space), the retailer decided to move upscale. But upscale customers didn't associate the Strawbridge & CLothier name with upscale shopping, and thus didn't respond quickly. Meanwhile, the retailer's pricey new merchandise alienated its solid middle-class customer base. After a few years of caroming back and forth with different messages, the family ultimately sold out to the May Co., which rechristened the store as just "Strawbridge's," tried to promote value. But by then the loyal value-driven base had gone elsewhere. The strategy failed, and the name disappeared into the great retail graveyard.





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