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Christmas 2007: What Went Wrong?
January 15, 2008

  

It was a lousy Christmas, I think we can all agree. Obviously, lower consumer spending had a huge impact. But jewelry seems to have taken a bigger hit than other industries. It’s rarely cited as among the season's best sellers.

 

Why? Well here are my theories:

 

-         Lack of exciting product. My editor Hedda often talks about this: Rarely do consumers say: “My friend has the greatest jewelry piece. I need one like it.”  You hear talk like that about shoes and handbags, but not diamonds. And I’m not even getting into IPODs, a far more unisex product than jewelry. It’s not for nothing that the DTC took aim at IPODs in its advertising this year.

 

Is this because of a lack of interesting and different styles? Or new concepts? Even “Journey,” which has been a pretty big hit with the majors, is something of a retread of three-stone.

 

Supplier of Choice was in many ways on-target when it talked about the need of this industry to become more consumer-focussed. And for all its faults, SoC did lead to some interesting product concepts (not all of which made it.) But now that SoC is receeding, it seems the industry is going backwards, and that’s a shame.

 

-         Advertising was a little dull. I saw many retailer jewelry advertisements over the holidays. Almost all of them struck the same themes and chords. There was gooey music, hazy shots of men gifting diamonds, the same styles in almost every ad. I am not saying we shouldn’t emphasize the link between jewelry and romance – it’s the backbone of our trade. But is that the only theme we should be stressing? And if it is repeated too often, doesn’t it lose its magic?  Even “Every Kiss Begins With Kay,” as successful as it’s been, is now a seven-year-old campaign. That is an eternity in advertising years.

 

On the bright side, at least in print, some designers do stress fashion in their advertising. And the DTC’s relatively new use of pop songs in advertising (like here and here) is quite effective, even when the commercials themselves are standard.

 

-         The “blood diamond”issue/movie and general bad publicity about diamonds (“they aren’t really rare,” etc.) has had  an impact. I am not saying it had a huge impact; it was probably pretty minor. But it sure didn’t help. You can find a lot of people on the Internet bad-mouthing diamonds, and who knows how many people they speak for.

 

So those are my theories. Any others? Or thoughts?


Posted by Rob Bates on January 15, 2008 | Comments (5)


January 15, 2008
In response to: Christmas 2007: What Went Wrong?
Mall Jewelry Boy commented:

Two main problems I've noted are the usual problems...reduced traffic and reduced average ticket. Major players responding to competition (Both Sterling and Zale reduced their prices to match Helzberg's iconic Journey prices, for example) or competition winning away sales (a diamond bought from Blue Nile instead of Shane Co.) doesn't help total sales in our category either. Lack of exciting product: Yes, I definitely agree! "Trends" noted at the big chains were all designs we've seen before, or a little boring and barely advertised. It's not that no one has any exciting new pieces in their cases, they're just not pushing them or investing in a full "collection" to tell the merchandise's story. We shouldn't NEED DPS to tell us what to advertise (the Diamond Circle Pendant, whatever you want to call it, worked without DPS/DTC engineering, right?). However, every major jewelry retailer is so tight-lipped about trends and merchandising right now, and so many jewelers are scared of "trendy" pieces. Advertising: To compound the dull advertising problem, everyone advertising the same pieces (mostly iconic Journey, some Circles and $99 diamond rings or pendants) didn't help things. Bad publicity: I especially note this on the internet, where it is almost shockingly toxic, but have seen very little of this in the retail stores. One particularly harmful trend I've seen is that of website "jewelers" that sell diamonds (or even pearls, from one specialty website) completely trashing "brick and mortar" jewelers, doing everything from instilling fear about quality to destroying trust by revealing margins. These websites are "credible" ones that have been interviewed by trade magazines like JCK, but yet they still put extremely harmful remarks on their FAQ pages. I do all my shopping for books online, but I don't see online booksellers crowing about "wholesale" prices or nasty little remarks about mark-up. Again, it's toxic, and makes me very sad to see. Can't we all just get along, charge what we are able to charge, and avoid these little barbs?




January 16, 2008
In response to: Christmas 2007: What Went Wrong?
Rob Bates commented:

Hey MJB, I forgot about the Internet ... probably should have included it. I doubt it had a huge impact, but I don't think had no impact either. Blue Nile is one of the few big companies to be reporting good results.


The circle pendant was promoted, if I am not mistaken, by Oprah, whose market power certainly rivals (if not tops) the DTC's. Am a little surprised DTC didn't jump on it like they did, back in the day, with the tennis bracelet. But I agree it would be healthier if people promoted their own products, not just the DTC's.


As far as the bashing, are you speaking of any web sites in particular? There are websites, some of the purportedly "socially conscious" ones, which say things that annoy me, and I don't really talk to them for the magazine, which is a policy that I go back and forth on. I do think "bashing" is something that's been going on in the jewelry industry since as long as I can remember -- not just independents bashing web sites and home shopping, but independents bashing their independent competitors. And so I'm not surprised that web sites bash too. It really is distasteful -- and if you say something strong enough, you can be held legally liable -- and it hurts overall confidence in our industry. But there is something about the "blind" nature of a diamond purchase that seems to invite this kind of thing.




January 16, 2008
In response to: Christmas 2007: What Went Wrong?
Hedda Schupak commented:

Ok, I've got to weigh in here: 1) This industry has discounted itself to death. No wonder people have a Pavlovian reaction equating the word "diamond" with "deal" and they don't trust jewelers any more than used car dealers. We did it to ourselves with 50% off ads for years. And the guild stores who advertise trust and integrity--well, why would they have to even mention it if it were understood? It's not! 2) The growth opportunity for this industry is in fashion, period. In self-purchase, not gift- or event-driven purchases. But the concept of "selling emotion," or "jewelry as significant gift occasion" has been hammered home so hard and for so long that both the retailer AND the customer can't see past it! 3) We don't spend money for image marketing, so we are not a demand-driven industry. Much as people love to Yurman-bash, fact is he's one of the few who's doing it right. He creates demand for his product--he doesn't schlep the goods hoping someone will buy. 4) If this is a luxury business, we need to start acting like one, not like schleppers. When was the last time you saw Gucci handbags at 50% off? That's how we need to market--design driven (which we're not); marketing-driven (we don't spend enough) to create a demand-driven marketplace. Christmas 2007 certainly had its own challenges, but it's a symptom of what's not working in this industry today, not the cause. The fact that some products still sold well is proof that there is some money to be made--we're just not offering a compelling enough reason for the consumer to spend it.




January 16, 2008
In response to: Christmas 2007: What Went Wrong?
Mall Jewelry Boy commented:

Rob: Ah, the power of Oprah! I didn't want to mention site addresses but thought I better as they're splashing "Jewelers Circular Keystone" all over it. Quoted from pearlparadise.com, who right there on their homepage are trumpeting quotes from JCK: "Lastly, with online orders coming in continuously from all over the country and the world, our turnover is so quick that we never add the typical 300% profit margin that jewelry stores do - our profit margins are trimmed down so that you get the best deal the first time you shop (no 50% off sales!)." Besides the bash at "typical jewelry stores", I find the "no sales" claim annoying when they advertise their prices off of "retail prices" that are ridiculously high, which is the same strategy that "50%" stores do with high tickets! Also notice how they carefully don't reveal anything about their own margins, which are still high as they have a supply intiative (pearl farm). Regarding diamond sites...who has ever sold a sizable solitaire with a 300% markup?




January 21, 2008
In response to: Christmas 2007: What Went Wrong?
Hedda Schupak commented:

Who is splashing Jewelers Circular Keystone all over their site? It's without permission!!!





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