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Call an Asscher an Asscher
April 24, 2007

I saw some Magnificent Jewelry today, some at Christie's, on view for the auction tomorrow, and some at Jeffrey Bilgore's office on 48th Street, a block away from Christie's.

I want to tell you about three diamonds.
 
The first was a Marquise, weighing aproximately just under 4 carats. It was Magnificent. What was different about this Marquise was that not only did it look absolutely terrific, unlike too many Marquises these days that just sit there like a bump on a pickle, but it also had a noticeably high crown and small table. I called it a Marquise. Jeffrey and another talented gemologist in the office called it a Navette. Ah - now there's a label you don't hear too often.
 
So, I went to my GIA diamond dictionary and found a definition that was, well, disappointing. It basically said "see Marquise." Which isn't wrong - but there's more to it.... The origin of Navette comes from the French meaning a "weaver's shuttle." GIA's Diamond Dictionary says it's French for "little boat." What it should say maybe is a "tall and heavy Marquise." Or better yet, a Tolkowsky proportion Marquise. At the time it was cut, it was probably called a Navette - a much better and proper description.

Which brings me to the other two stones I wanted to talk about. They were very large, 25 carats each, square, cut corner step cuts. The label says Asscher-cut. With no mention of a laboratory report saying Asscher Cut, I will step up and say that they didn't look like Asschers to me. More like Square Emerald Cuts. Not that there's anything wrong with that. But if someone says they have a pair of 25 carat Asschers, I want to see high thick crowns, big fat corners, small tables, and a good sized culet. These had none of that. Again, disappointed.

The point - Call it what it is, please. If you say you have a nice marquise, I'll be hoping you show me a navette. And even though I like a nicely made square emerald cut, I LOVE a nice Asscher cut.       

Posted by Gary Roskin on April 24, 2007 | Comments (2)