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Where Are All the Black Jewelry Designers?

September 12, 2008

When Vogue Italia came out with its A Black Issue featuring all non-white models in July 2008, shot by masterful American photographer Steven Meisel, to make a point about racism and underutilized black talent in the fashion industry (see The Independent and The New York Times), I unfortunately thought about our industry.


Vogue Italia's July 2008 gatefold cover.

From left: Liya Kebede, Sessilee Lopez, Jourdan Dunn, and Naomi Campbell

Photo: Steven Meisel for Italian Vogue

Photo via The New York Times, Beautiful Is Beautiful


Naomi Campbell on Vogue Italia

Photo: Steven Meisel for Italian Vogue

Photo via Jezebel.com


Why? Well, I came back from the JCK ~ Las Vegas Show in June, then attended JA New York in July, and booth after booth, all I saw were white faces: Where are all the black jewelry designers?


JCK
recently featured industry dynamo Russell Simmons in our June issue (click here to read), and Luxury spotlighted Chris Aire in our 2005 Designer Issue. But by and large, the designers we profile are on the lighter side of the color spectrum—that's where the pool seems to be. But is it? (I'm happy to say that we're diversified in our model castings and photo selections.)

 

Russell Simmons on the cover of JCK June 2008

 

Model Liya Kebede and jewelry designer Chris Aire recently teamed up during Aire's fashion show at the ThisDay Africa Rising Music & Fashion Festival in the Kennedy Center in Washington, D.C.

Photo by Chris Jackson/Getty Images North America

Photo via Zimbio.com


Donna Chambers'
booth was a breath of fresh air in Vegas. I stopped by to look at her ancient mother-of-pearl gaming chips. She's a talented lady who's been in the industry a while. But where are all the others?


There are a few celebrities in our midst: Seal (Heidi Klum's hubby) launched his line for Mouawad at JCK ~ Las Vegas, and New York socialite Genevieve Jones has an eponymous high-end line that looks promising. Home shopping networks QVC and HSN both have representation from African-American jewelry designers, but mostly in fashion or costume. Cynthia Garrett (Lenny Kravitz's sis) is on The Q, while HSN landed supermodel/entrepreneur (and David Bowie's better half) Iman with her Global Chic line and Miss Tina by Tina Knowles (Beyoncé's mom).


But in addition to fashion's runway and the jewelry industry's trade shows, black models are all-too absent in jewelry advertising. Not so in the fashion world. VI's A Black Issue sent shockwaves through the fashion industry, and Stefano Pilati at YSL is riding the wave (YSL already has a history of presenting a multicultural runway), featuring Naomi Campbell in the Manifesto campaign for the new Fall/Winter collection, shot by Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin. Gorgeous.

 

Screen grab of the Naomi Campbell in the YSL Manifesto campaign

Photo via YSL.com


Though watch companies fare better (Movado's brand ambassadors include jazz maestro Wynton Marsalis, actress Kerry Washington, and baseball's Derek Jeter), the jewelry industry needs to take note. Jewelry assumes different qualities against varying skin tones, and looks lucious on all. Yet we only see jewels on white skin in ads. Why?


Need convincing? You have only to look at Meisel's VI images to see the intrinsic beauty of black women, and the (selling!) power of their skin.

 

Naomi Campbell for Vogue Italia

Photo: Steven Meisel for Italian Vogue

Photo via The New York Times, Beautiful Is Beautiful






Sessilee Lopez for Vogue Italia

Photo: Steven Meisel for Italian Vogue

Photo via SessileeLopez.blogspot.com


Tyra Banks

Photo: Steven Meisel for Italian Vogue

Photo via The New York Times, Beautiful Is Beautiful

 

Tyra, PhotoShop'd (amateurishly, by moi) with a Mikimoto pearl earring…can't you see it?

Girl With a Pearl Earring | Johannes Vermeer, circa 1665 to 1667

Photo via FineArtPrintsOnDemand.com

 

I applaud Vogue Italia for its statement but also for its execution of undeniably beautiful and incomparable photography. I write this at the end of New York Fashion Week, happy to have seen somewhat less whitewashed runways. But for our industry, too, I hope to see a more colorful populace (in person at trade shows, in magazines, and in advertising). After all, according to the U.S. Census Bureau, 40.2 million is, "as of July 1, 2006, the estimated population of black residents in the United States, including those of more than one race. They made up 13.4 percent of the total U.S. population." (Source: Population estimates.)

  • If you're a black designer, weigh in! Do you attend trade shows? If not, tell us why.
  • If you're involved with marketing and collateral, do you use black models in advertising campaigns? Yes? Give us a link. No? Tell us your honest thoughts.
  • And if you're a jewelry enthusiast who knows of some great black talents who don't get much ink, use this post as a forum to highlight that talent.

Above all, let's share, discuss, and heed the Mahogany Model Management campaign VI spawned,

 

Mahogany Model Management's Black But Invisible campaign

Photo via MahoganyModelManagement.com


Posted by Toni Rumore on September 12, 2008 | Comments (28)


Industries: Fashion Trends
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September 12, 2008
In response to: Where Are All the Black Jewelry Designers?
Cindy Edelstein commented:

Let's not forget the amazing Sandy Baker -- now in her 30th year in business. She started with gold jewelry and now has taken the boutique world by storm.

And then we've got newcomers like Opal Stone and Felicia Grey of Haru.




September 12, 2008
In response to: Where Are All the Black Jewelry Designers?
StyleCouncil commented:

This is definitely a point that needs to be addressed in the fashion world. Excellent post and as usual the Italians are ahead of everybody.




September 15, 2008
In response to: Where Are All the Black Jewelry Designers?
Metalcyberspace commented:

My favorite is Art Smith from the 50's. b.Oct. 28, 1917 NY NY USA-d.Feb.20, 1982 NY NY USA
I have the catalog of his retrospective with more info about him and of course lots of photos.

Question for you.
Where are all the black jewelry editors?




September 15, 2008
In response to: Where Are All the Black Jewelry Designers?
Liz Mannette commented:

Thanks for this very interesting article.
I've recently launched my jewelry line that pays homage to the rhythmic music of steel drums which my family pioneered in the Caribbean island of Trinidad.
I have not exhibited at a trade show yet because of cost, and I am still developing the Collection. But look out for me at 09 events. I use black, white and mixed race models because they represent my market. You can view the models and my designs at lizmannette.com.




September 15, 2008
In response to: Where Are All the Black Jewelry Designers?
YoungFamilyJeweler commented:

Thank goodness for Ms. Rumore!

I'd love to see a Luxury profile on a fellow african-american. When can we expect that?

Not from nothing, having Mr. Simmons on the cover of JCK and at Vegas was great, but you have to admit that the pages of your own magazines are pretty lilly white.

Models do count for something, but why use models when there are enough people in our industry that could grace your pages?




September 15, 2008
In response to: Where Are All the Black Jewelry Designers?
Hedda Schupak commented:

We've discussed this issue many times at JCK and I've written an editorial on it as well. This industry isn't entirely Caucasian--lots of Indians and Asians in it--but I have often wondered "where are all the black jewelry store owners?" I see many African-American women wearing beautiful fine jewelry, and one would assume that the proportion of black storeowners vs. white storeowners would be relative to the general population, but we don't seem to see many African-American jewelers at the mainstream jewelry shows, and I don't recall meeting many at the various association-driven events, either. As for designers, I've known both Donna Chambers and Sandy Baker for years, and they're lovely ladies and great designers. Sandy, incidentally, is not showing at mainstream jewelry shows anymore but she's very much in business and was a featured speaker at GIA Career Fair in New York this summer. And Russell Simmons, whom I'm getting to know on the Diamond Empowerment Fund advisory board, is an amazing man. As for black models in JCK, when I was fashion editor 10 years ago, I tried to find some, but the only ones available in our price range were very light-skinned. This was before Alek Wek became popular, so it might be different now.




September 15, 2008
In response to: Where Are All the Black Jewelry Designers?
jtk commented:

Very interesting topic especially in the context of the current political environment.




September 16, 2008
In response to: Where Are All the Black Jewelry Designers?
Marlon commented:

Brava Ms. Rumore, your article is exceptionally informative, well written and creative! I, for one look forward to future posts by you on such timely issues.




September 16, 2008
In response to: Where Are All the Black Jewelry Designers?
Toni commented:

I appreciate all of the thoughtful comments and look forward to discovering some new (to me) designers, so keep your ideas coming! Participate here on our blogs, or send snail mail to JCK at 360 Park Avenue South | 17th Floor | New York, NY 10010




September 18, 2008
In response to: Where Are All the Black Jewelry Designers?
cocoablossom commented:

I am a designer, but don't know how to break in to the industry. I'm glad there is an article talking about Black designers. As one myself, It helps to know that there is genuine interest. Thanks




September 24, 2008
In response to: Where Are All the Black Jewelry Designers?
ppf commented:

Thank you for writing this!




October 3, 2008
In response to: Where Are All the Black Jewelry Designers?
hw commented:

Where are all the black jewelry designer, right in front of you? Thank you so much Ms. Rumore, thank you so much. It is your bravery and courage, which just might start the change, even in this field, to include all Americans. We are not at the big shows because we can’




October 3, 2008
In response to: Where Are All the Black Jewelry Designers?
sandra commented:

I have seen alot of skill black jewely designers as well as black jewelers. On person that does both is Hershal Wiggins Designs at: argentium1.etsy.com and his site that he is working on: hershalwigginsdesigns.com. GREAT artical




October 3, 2008
In response to: Where Are All the Black Jewelry Designers?
sandra commented:

I have seen alot of skill black jewely designers as well as black jewelers. On person that does both is Hershal Wiggins Designs at: argentium1.etsy.com and his site that he is working on: hershalwigginsdesigns.com. GREAT artical




October 6, 2008
In response to: Where Are All the Black Jewelry Designers?
Carrie Soucy commented:

I'm glad to see so much interest in this subject. Regarding comments/questions about breaking into the market or getting press coverage in JCK magazines... As the editor of JCKstyle and Luxury, and having covered the market for more than a decade, I have the same advice for designers of all races, ages, religions, genders, nationalities, etc.: Jennifer Heebner and I work the jewelry trade shows, scour press kits, go on market visits, etc., to find the jewelry readers see in our pages. We love to see great new jewelry design, as do our readers. What we look for is interesting design, craftsmanship, cohesive collections, and the resources/ability to produce a wholesale line for a retail account. If a designer, ANY designer, wants to break into the market, he or she should be exhibiting at jewelry shows, submitting press materials to editors, etc. Visibility is key.




October 25, 2008
In response to: Where Are All the Black Jewelry Designers?
Helen commented:

Finally someone has the courage to address this issue head on with intelligence. A lot of black designers don't exhibit because we can't. We in the industry know that this is a big problem but everyone ignores it and doesn't talk about it. Thank you Ms. Rumore for speaking out and not following the pack.




October 25, 2008
In response to: Where Are All the Black Jewelry Designers?
Helen commented:

Finally someone has the courage to address this issue head on with intelligence. A lot of black designers don't exhibit because we can't. We in the industry know that this is a big problem but everyone ignores it and doesn't talk about it. Thank you Ms. Rumore for speaking out and not following the pack.




October 27, 2008
In response to: Where Are All the Black Jewelry Designers?
LaNorma Hopes commented:

Thank you Toni for addressing this topic. I am a up and coming black jewelry designer with an online jewelry boutique named Signature Designs by LaNorma(www.signaturesbylanorma.com). I started my business less than a year ago and I am trying to get more exposure in to the fashion/jewelry market by showcasing in various events. It is learning process trying to gain exposure and recognition in this industry. I have often wondered what does it take to be exposure in the various fashion and style magazines. You bring up a good point.




November 8, 2008
In response to: Where Are All the Black Jewelry Designers?
Jaszy commented:

I am so glad that I found this post! Thank you, thank you, thank you! I am a fashion jewelry designer with a focus on offering eco-conscious alternatives. Although I am African-American and completely applaud your article, I find that it's unfortunate that it still comes down to black and white. There are Native American, Asian and other designers that are also overlooked. The more we bring the focus to black vs white, the discrepency will remain. Feature articles that celebrate all ethnicities would be just as welcomed.




November 10, 2008
In response to: Where Are All the Black Jewelry Designers?
bette commented:

I am a young black jewelry deisigner and I would like to see articles about people who represent ME. No better time for CHANGE.




January 13, 2009
In response to: Where Are All the Black Jewelry Designers?
kofii kofii commented:

I am a black jewelry designer. I am working on a fine jewelry line. Take a look at some of my work. www.aakofii.com
I am budgeting to do my first trade show in 2010. I am aakofii THE JEWELRY DESIGNER. I would appreciate any advice that you would like to offer.




January 17, 2009
In response to: Where Are All the Black Jewelry Designers?
Pam commented:

I am a Black jewelry designer based in Atlanta. I invite you all to view my work on my website, www.pambranchdesigns.com. My jewelry is inspired by the close ties that I have with my family. Each of my lines is named after a loved one. Whether the piece is wire-wrapped or soldered, whether it is adorned with glass beads or semi-precious stones, my jewelry is a reflection of my family's love, support and, and more than anything else, their wit.




February 1, 2009
In response to: Where Are All the Black Jewelry Designers?
Tamra commented:

Hi, I'm a black jewelry designer and metalsmith as well. Thank you for this post! This is one question that I pondered for a while when I first got started in this business.

You can view my work at www.agjewelrydesign.com (I'm currently working on a new website, so this one is not quite up to date); and, I am a seller on Etsy and my sellernames are agjewelrydesign and tgendesignstudio.

Again, thank you SO much for this post!

BTW, Glenn Lewis is another very talented black jewelry designer. www.glennlewis.com




February 4, 2009
In response to: Where Are All the Black Jewelry Designers?
deborah lee commented:

Hi, my name is Deborah Lee I have been designing jewelry for the past 28 yrs. I graduated from FIT in NYC in 1981. My mom owned a boutique in NJ when i was 9 she started buying Sandy Baker jewelry back in the late 60's. My love of jewelry started then , I have posed this question to my friends are there any other black jewelers or designers on the scene. My kids are now grown and I'm working on a ligne hope to see you out there in 2010 my email deborahdlee2@yahoo.com




February 5, 2009
In response to: Where Are All the Black Jewelry Designers?
sharpejay@verizon.net commented:

One Jewelry Designer is in Richmond Virginia, known as JAY SHARPE! He's been designing jewelry for close to twenty years! Visit the website www.jaysharpe.com and see what this brother has been doing. He and his family founded the company in 1990 as he was graduating from VCU with a Fine Arts Degree. Jay's jewelry has been around the world, even to China. Jay creates one of a kind pieces for all who dare. He's a fluent artist, designer, teacher, mentor, spokesperson at colleges and a well grounded person. Call us at 804 353-4733 - 10:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. Tuesdays - Saturday. Voted the best designer in Richmond Magazine in 2004,one of the best place's to shop in the upcoming issue of Southern Living's Magazine 2009 March issue, designed ornament for the Bush's Family Christmas tree in 2007. We work with our clients from all across the United States via fax designs, email designs and just trusting Jay's designs. Give us a call and we will be happy to speak with you. The Black Designer has been here as quiet as it is kept!




March 27, 2009
In response to: Where Are All the Black Jewelry Designers?
Nina Basharova commented:

Where exactly were Black Fashion designers on inaugural night? Why First Lady chose to wear that rather unmemorable (in my words- awful)dress on one of the most important events in recent history?One of the most stunning opportunities missed.
Another point is that I was personally approached by one of our industry VIP's with an advice of not to feature "ethnic" models in ads. The jewelry industry is far more conservative than fashion.Brides are always blond is ads...




May 13, 2009
In response to: Where Are All the Black Jewelry Designers?
raspysunny@yahoo.com commented:

I can't believe I'm reading this!! Thank you! Thank you! Thank you!

I have been in the manufacturing industry for 7 years as a sales assistant. I have been a GIA student since 2003 (Diamond Grading). Started designing jewelry as of last year. I would really appreciate any kind of advice on opening my own gallery. Even more, just rocking this industry!

Even though I have rubbed elbows with people in the industry, (not african american) advice, and help was always avoided and ignored. It is then I decided to learn this industry on my own. As an African American Woman this is my dream. To defeat all odds. There is enough room in this industry for EVERYONE. My future studies... Jewelry Business Management, G.G.

I'd appreciate any feedback, advice, kind words, anything.

Please contact me at raspysunny@yahoo.com




June 12, 2009
In response to: Where Are All the Black Jewelry Designers?
fran commented:

jacqueline rabun, black american desinger based in london





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