Cutting-Edge Design at AGTA

The Spectrum Awards once again showcase the most innovative colored gemstone jewelry designs.

Staff -- JCK-Jewelers Circular Keystone, 2/1/2005

This past October, in Dallas, Texas, marked the 21st annual installment of the American Gem Trade Association (AGTA) Spectrum Awards. The competition recognizes original jewelry and lapidary arts that possess stellar innovation and design set in various metals and using natural colored gemstones, pearls, and cultured pearls.

The two arms of the 2005 AGTA Spectrum Awards are Spectrum, honoring aesthetics, design, innovation, wearability, quality of stones and manufacturing, and overall publicity potential; and Cutting Edge, honoring creative achievement in the lapidary arts. Anonymous judging takes place in five fashion categories for Spectrum: Evening Wear (the largest entry category, at 35 percent), Business/Day Wear (20 percent), Casual Wear (15 percent), Bridal Wear (6 percent), and Men's Wear (5 percent); and in eight Cutting Edge categories: Open Category Classic Gemstone (2 percent), Open Category All Other Faceted (2 percent), Open Category Phenomenal Gemstones (1 percent), Pairs & Suites (2 percent), Faceting (4 percent), Carving (3 percent), Combination (3 percent), and Objects of Art (2 percent).

All entrants are also automatically considered for the Best of Show award in both the Spectrum and Cutting Edge sectors; the Best Use of Color award in Spectrum; and the Manufacturing Honors, celebrating excellence in colored-gemstone and cultured-pearl jewelry that can be manufactured at higher production rates, awarded within all subsets of both Spectrum and Cutting Edge. Additionally, automatic consideration is given to pieces that conform to the parameters of the Platinum Honors, bestowed in each of the Spectrum subsets upon pieces that use as their metal 75 percent to 100 percent of either 90 percent or 95 percent platinum.

The five judges were gem-cutting innovator Mark Gronlund of Mark Gronlund; Alice Keller, editor-in-chief of Gems & Gemology; Mark Mann of Visual Communications Inc.; jewelry design firm and gallery owner William Richey of Richey Gallery; and jeweler and store owner Eric Wright of Village Goldsmith.

The 2005 AGTA Spectrum Awards drew 417 entries, with the percentage of entries splitting roughly at 80 percent in Spectrum and 20 percent in Cutting Edge. More specifically, Spectrum's items by type saw increases in percentages from last year's competition in almost all categories, and divided at: 31 percent rings; 15 percent pendants; 11 percent necklaces; 8 percent earrings; 6 percent pins/brooches; 3 percent bracelets; 2 percent other; and 0-1 percent each of bangles, cuff/links, formal sets, medallions, necklace and earring sets, pins/pendants, slides, and tiaras. The Cutting Edge items by type included: 19 percent gemstone(s) (down from last year's 29 percent), and 1 percent other.

This year again, the largest percentage of gemstone entries were blue (17 percent, down from last year's 21 percent). That preponderance was followed by green (16 percent, down from last year's 19 percent); yellow (11 percent, up from 7 percent); multicolored (11 percent, up from 10 percent); pink (10 percent, down from 11 percent); red (10 percent, up from 6 percent); orange (7 percent, as last year); purple (6 percent, down from 7 percent); white (6 percent, as last year); black (5 percent, up from 0 percent); and brown (1 percent, down from 2 percent).

Award Winners

Cutting Edge

Best of Show. Dalan Hargrave, Stephanie Michael Young, Spring Branch, Texas, 125-ct. spirographic-cut mint green beryl with a concave pavilion and flat-faceted crown.

Classic Gemstone. First place: Allen Kleiman, A. Kleiman & Co., Boulder, Colo., 12.36-ct. oval-shaped unheated blue sapphire. Second place: Michael Arnstein, Walter Arnstein Inc., New York, N.Y., 24.90-ct. natural untreated yellow sapphire. Third place: Ashok Kumar Sancheti, Pioneer Gems, New York, N.Y., 1.24-ct. natural fancy-cut emerald.

All Other Faceted. First place: Ben Kho, Kho International Ltd., Decatur, Ga., 11.22-ct. fancy cushion-cut rhodochrosite. Second place: Allen Kleiman, A. Kleiman & Co., Boulder, Colo., 6.31-ct. pear-shaped Paraíba tourmaline. Third place: James Alger, James Alger Co. in Bedford, N.H., 17.73-ct. octagon-shaped peridot. Honorable Mention: James Alger, James Alger Co., Bedford, N.H., 14.47-ct. rose-cut oval green tourmaline.

Phenomenal Gemstones. First place: Jeffrey Bilgore, Jeffrey Bilgore LLC, New York, N.Y., 16.21-ct., oval star ruby.

Pairs & Suites. First place: Hemant Phophaliya, A. G. Color Inc., New York, N.Y., round drop tanzanite pair (30.37 ct. t.w.). Second place: Hemant Phophaliya, A. G. Color Inc., New York, N.Y., cushion-cut tanzanite pair (33.03 ct. t.w.). Third place: Allen Kleiman, A. Kleiman & Co., Boulder, Colo., suite of brilliant, cushion-cut spessartite garnets (76.76 ct. t.w.). Honorable Mention: Ralph Wobito, Custom Gem Cutting Ltd., Stouffville, Ontario, 10.22-ct. and 10.04-ct. cushion-cut pink tourmalines.

Faceting. First place: John Dyer, Precious Gemstones Co., Eau Claire, Wis., 20.61-ct. opposed bar-cut imperial topaz. Second place: John Dyer, Precious Gemstones Co., Eau Claire, Wis., 28.34-ct. radiant-cut, diamond-shaped Madeira citrine. Third place: John Dyer, Precious Gemstones Co., Eau Claire, Wis., 15.88-ct. sparkler-cut tsavorite garnet. Honorable Mention: John Dyer, Precious Gemstones Co., Eau Claire, Wis., 26.21-ct. multifaceted, pear-shaped natural aquamarine.

Carving. First place: Glenn Lehrer, Lehrer Designs, Larkspur, Calif., 194.19-ct. combination cut, carved, and faceted waffle-cut aquamarine. Second place: Dalan Hargrave, Dust Devil Mining Co., Cloverdale, Ore., 73.55-ct. "Emerging Flower" sunstone with copper feathers and green highlights. Third place: William Cox, Dust Devil Mining Co., Cloverdale, Ore., 84.90-ct. freeform sunstone with copper inclusions.

Combination. First place: Dalan Hargrave, Stephanie Michael Young, Spring Branch, Texas, 125.0-ct. spirographic-cut mint green beryl with a concave pavilion and flat-faceted crown. Second place: Christopher Wolfsberg, Colored Creations, Manchester, Tenn., 35.56-ct. kunzite; concave, flat-faceted free form. Third place: Richard Homer, Columbia Gem House, Inc., Vancouver, Wash., 38.69-ct. round concave tube-set brilliant-cut mint green tourmaline. Honorable Mention: Michael Dyber, Ledge Art Studio, Rumney, N.H., 281.20-ct. faceted and carved "Atom" beryl.

Objects of Art. First place: Philip Louer, Jr., North American Gem Carvers, Riner, Va., 18k gold intarsia box featuring lapis, jasper, malachite, turquoise, sugilite, and exotic woods. Second place: Susan Allen, E. F. Watermelon, Old Lyme, Conn., elephant head quartz. Third place: William Holman, William S. Holman Design Group, Dallas, Texas, 18k green-gold sculpture featuring a 36.16-ct. citrine accented with fancy-colored sapphires (2 ct. t.w.). Honorable Mention: Lawrence Stoller, Crystal Works, Light House Point, Fla., 3.75-pound "Insight" carved quartz on a bronze base.

Best Use of Color. Andrew Paetzold, Philip Zahm & Associates, Inc., Aptos, Calif., 18k white gold ring featuring a 4.13-ct. blue sapphire surrounded by fancy-colored corundum (3.20 ct. t.w.) and diamonds (.10 ct. t.w.).

Spectrum

Best of Show. Glen Engelbrecht, GJ Designs, Sarasota, Fla., 18k yellow gold necklace featuring a 33.33-ct. orthoclase accented with a 1.90-ct. demantoid garnet and diamonds (.62 ct. t.w.) on a chain of demantoid garnets (11.52 ct. t.w.).

Bridal Wear. First place: Michael Zacharakis, D'Errico Jewelers, Scarsdale, N.Y., platinum necklace featuring a variety of 9.5-mm to 16.5-mm South Sea cultured pearls. Second place: Garo Demirjian, Demirjian Jewelry Design, Scottsdale, Ariz., 18k white gold earrings featuring two 9.5-mm South Sea cultured pearls accented with diamonds. Third place: Ricardo Basta, E. Eichberg Jewelers, Beverly Hills, Calif., platinum necklace featuring a 5.23-ct. topaz accented with 11 tsavorite garnets and diamonds (.86 ct. t.w.). Honorable Mention: Ricardo Basta, E. Eichberg Jewelers, Beverly Hills, Calif., platinum and 18k yellow gold necklace featuring yellow, pink, green, blue, red, and white diamonds (17.22 ct. t.w.). Platinum Honors: Robert Pellicia, J. R. Dunn Jewelers, Light House Point, Fla., platinum ring featuring a 2.96-ct. blue sapphire accented with blue sapphires (.76 ct. t.w.) and diamonds (.34 ct. t.w.).

Business/Day Wear. First place: Samuel Getz, Samuel Getz Private Jewelers & Designers, Coral Gables, Fla., 18k yellow and white gold suite; necklace features a 30.21-ct. golden beryl accented with a .26-ct. garnet and diamonds (.68 ct. t.w.); earrings feature two golden beryls (9.20 ct. t.w.) and two garnets (.23 ct. t.w.) accented with diamonds (.22 ct. t.w.). Second place: Robert Bruce Henderson, Plateau Jewelers Inc., Sammamish, Wash., 18k yellow gold and 14k white gold pendant featuring a 7.46-ct. grossularite accented with a 1.26-ct. tsavorite garnet and diamonds (1.06 ct. t.w.). Third place: Maria Canale, Richard Krementz Gemstones, Newark, N.J., platinum and 18k gold pin featuring a 2.28-ct. tanzanite and a 2.75-ct. rubellite tourmaline accented with diamonds (1.68 ct. t.w.). Manufacturing Honors: Lee Charles Buckingham, Neiman Marcus, Dallas, Texas, 18k yellow gold ring featuring an 11.54-ct. amethyst accented with diamonds (1.60 ct. t.w.). Honorable Mention: Julie Buckareff, American Jewelry Artworks, London, Ontario, 18k rose gold and platinum brooch featuring quartz (60.41 ct. t.w.), tsavorite garnets (1.64 ct. t.w.), blue topaz (.14 ct. t.w.), and spessartite garnets (.49 ct. t.w.) accented with pink and white diamonds. Platinum Honors: Mark Schneider, Mark Schneider Design, Long Beach, Calif., platinum and 18k yellow gold ring featuring a .90-ct. emerald accented with yellow diamonds (.18 ct. t.w.) and white diamonds (.65 ct. t.w.).

Casual Wear. First place: Alan Friedman, Alan Friedman Designs, Beverly Hills, Calif., 18k white gold bracelet featuring eight pink sapphires accented with yellow diamonds (.66 ct. t.w.) and white diamonds (.83 ct. t.w.). Second place: William Travis Kukovich, William Travis Jewelry, Chapel Hill, N.C., 18k yellow gold and platinum ring featuring a 4.71-ct. mint green tourmaline and two purple sapphires (.15 ct. t.w.). Third place: Mark Lauer, Mark Michael Design, Maple Grove, Minn., 18k yellow gold and platinum pendant featuring a 16.63-ct. citrine and a .29-ct. tsavorite garnet accented with two diamonds (.06 ct. t.w.). Manufacturing Honors: An Nguyen, Lisa Kaye & Company Inc., Durham, N.C., 18k yellow gold ring featuring a 1.02-ct. sapphire inlaid in ebony wood. Honorable Mention: Paul Derrickson, Federico's Design Jewelers in Traverse City, Mich., 18k rose gold and platinum ring featuring a 5.84-ct. indicolite tourmaline and two pink sapphires (2.08 ct. t.w.) accented with yellow diamonds (.08 ct. t.w.) and white diamonds (.10 ct. t.w.). Honorable Mention: Lee Charles Buckingham, Neiman Marcus, Dallas, Texas, platinum "Bat" ring featuring an 11.52-ct. quartz with a rutile in the center accented with diamonds (.49 ct. t.w.). Platinum Honors: David Hrubec, Dal Pezzo Design Inc., Miami, Fla., platinum ring featuring a 2.5-ct. cabochon moonstone accented with two small cultured pearls, pink sapphires (1.08 ct. t.w.), white diamonds (.39 ct. t.w.), and yellow diamonds (.01 ct. t.w.).

Evening Wear. First place: Glen Engelbrecht, GJ Designs, Sarasota, Fla., 18k yellow gold necklace featuring a 33.33-ct. orthoclase accented with a 1.90-ct. demantoid garnet and diamonds (.62 ct. t.w.) on a chain of demantoid garnets (11.52 ct. t.w.). Second place: Llyn Strelau, Llyn L. Strelau Jewels by Design Ltd., Calgary, Alberta, 18k yellow and white gold "Fall of Angels" necklace featuring a 6.23-ct. rubellite tourmaline, a 4.96-ct. spessartite garnet, and a 12.66-ct. golden South Sea cultured pearl accented with six diamonds (.15 ct. t.w.). Third place: Samuel Getz, Samuel Getz Private Jewelers & Designers, Coral Gables, Fla., 18k white gold necklace featuring a 76.26-ct. aquamarine accented with diamonds (1.39 ct. t.w.); suspended from a bezel-set diamond necklace (1.65 ct. t.w.) with a .06-ct. diamond on the clasp. Manufacturing Honors: Marisa Goebel, La Belle Atelier Marisa, Santa Monica, Calif., 18k white gold earrings featuring two 15-mm Tahitian pearls accented with diamonds (.54 ct. t.w.). Honorable Mention: Sally Lynn Mitschke, Montanari Fine Art Jewelers, Kansas City, Mo., 18k yellow gold earrings featuring 12-mm golden South Sea pearls accented with yellow sapphires (1.53 ct. t.w.) and diamonds (.56 ct. t.w.). Platinum Honors: Ron Lodholz, Stonehaven Jewelry Gallery Ltd., Cary, N.C., 18k yellow gold and platinum necklace featuring a 27.73-ct. citrine and three tourmalines (4.53 ct. t.w.) accented with diamonds (.51 ct. t.w.).

Men's Wear. First place: Mark Schneider, Mark Schneider Design, Long Beach, Calif., platinum cufflinks featuring two 11-mm black South Sea pearls and pink sapphires (1.20 ct. t.w.) accented with diamonds (1.61 ct. t.w.). Second place: Lee Charles Buckingham, Neiman Marcus, Dallas, Texas, platinum cufflinks featuring two rubies (9.65 ct. t.w.) accented with diamonds (.96 ct. t.w.). Third place: Lee Charles Buckingham, Neiman Marcus, Dallas, Texas, 18k yellow gold and platinum cufflinks featuring two matching citrines (13.67 ct. t.w.) accented with diamonds (.85 ct. t.w.). Platinum Honors: Mark Schneider, Mark Schneider Design, Long Beach, Calif., platinum ring featuring jade, tsavorite garnets, and yellow diamonds.