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Jewels With Brazilian Style

Although it's likely that more than half of the colored gemstones in your jewelry inventory come from Brazil, the jewelry itself probably was made somewhere else. But at last year's Feninjer Show in São Paulo, Brazilian jewelry designers and manufacturers showed they know how to create jewelry—with a Brazilian twist.

By Gary Roskin, G.G., FGA, Senior Editor -- JCK-Jewelers Circular Keystone, 3/1/2003

Mother Nature has given Brazil huge reserves of gemstones and gold. Although it doesn't produce ruby, sapphire, or tanzanite, name almost any other gemstone, and Brazil has it in spades. The country is home to some of the world's finest aquamarine, amethyst, alexandrite, chrysoberyl and cat's-eye chrysoberyl, citrine, emerald, fluorite, garnet, kunzite, iolite, morganite, tourmaline (including, of course, Paraíba), and topaz (including imperial topaz, which is found only in Brazil). And don't forget that Brazil also produces diamonds.

For centuries, Brazil has exported mainly rough and cut stones, not jewelry. But over the past few years, Brazilian designers and manufacturers have collectively focused on creating "the Brazilian style," and the August 2002 Feninjer Show in São Paulo showed off that style with rousing Latin passion.

Defining Brazil. But what exactly is Brazilian style? It's informed partly by the country's natural beauty, partly by its vibrant culture—think Carnivale—and partly by its ethnically diverse population. Feninjer put Brazil's national treasury of gemstones on display, in jewelry designs that depicted Brazilian life, nature, and culture. The styles were categorized by theme: "Theatrical," using multiple gems, multiple colors, and most importantly, movement; "Flower Power," described as "tutti-fruity"; and "Romantic," a marriage of jewel and body.

IBGM, the Brazilian Gems and Precious Metals Institute, helped promote the main event and hosted the IBGM Design Awards. The design theme, "The Atlantic Rainforest," brought out jeweled versions of butterflies, waterfalls, bromeliads, and ferns. There were pieces set with every Brazilian gem imaginable, sometimes, it seemed, all in the same piece. Some designers even combined indigenous woods and nuts with gems and gold—just the kind of off-the-wall inspiration that helps define "Brazilian style."

 

Imperial Topaz: A Trip to Rodrigo de Silva

Commercial quantities of true imperial topaz come from only one locality in the world, Rodrigo de Silva, Brazil. The mine there is an hour's trek from Ouro Preto, which is a two-hour drive from Belo Horizonte, the state capital of Minas Gerais.

It's an open-pit mine located amid rolling, dusty, parched hills. At the bottom of the pit, bulldozers shove rock and gem-filled mud to a low point, where a high-wire-guided shovel scoops it and drags it up the pit wall. Each scoop of muck is washed with water, and the rock separated from the mud. Small rocks are moved by conveyor belt to a small workhouse, where gem sorters separate the gems from the dross. Whenever hands touch rock, the sorter must turn palms up, fingers open, to the video camera at the end of the belt.

The stream of wet rock glistens as it moves along the conveyer, and to the inexperienced eye, everything looks like a gem. But the workers at Rodrigo de Silva know what they're looking for—the telltale orange-red color of imperial topaz.

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