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Making the Most of Best Sellers

It takes a system to know what's selling.

By William George Shuster, Senior Editor -- JCK-Jewelers Circular Keystone, 6/1/2002

To retail successfully, a jeweler must track inventory regularly, say jewelers and business experts. "That's the key," says Terry Ianuale, director of merchandising for Scull and Co. and a veteran jewelry retailer. "Monitor them closely for key items, best price points, and fast sellers and restock quickly. Many jewelers don't really study their [inventory and sales] numbers. If they can't, they should designate someone to keep them informed."

To identify best sellers and inventory turns, a jeweler needs a system, says veteran jeweler and retail consultant Janice Mack of Performance Concepts Inc. "Identify your inventory categories and the products in them," she advises. "Under 'precious metals,' for example, is 'gold jewelry.' Under that is '14k jewelry' and under that, items like 'earrings' or 'chains.' When you have the categories and a reasonable breakdown of their products, see how much inventory and investment is in each. Look at each one's turn and calculate your ROI (return on investment)."

Monitoring. There are many ways to monitor merchandise. Inventory control computer software can be programmed to generate reports by day, week, month, and year and by department, category, price, or item. Reports can let a jeweler see, for example, how well emerald rings sell and at what price, and alert him when to reorder.

Sales and turnover also can be tracked manually. One simple way is to put date codes on merchandise tags as inventory arrives, says retail consultant Lori Askew of the Vantage Group. When an item is sold, remove the tag and tape it to the store's daily receipt. In a short time, when recapping, a jeweler sees how long items are in stock, and which are fast sellers.

Salespeople also can monitor inventory, notes Askew. "Ask them individually and in staff meetings what customers want, what's selling, and what isn't. Be sure they pay attention to what customers want. Give them small notebooks to jot down sales not made because items are out of stock, not available at prices requested, or not carried by you."

MBWA. Another effective monitoring method, says Jeff Buzbuzian of Knar Jewellery, Waterloo, Ontario, Canada, is MBWA—"Management by Walking Around."

"With inventory and sales reports in hand, spend an hour a day walking around your store to see what's in now, missing, or not selling," Buzbuzian advises. "Focus on one department at a time. Talk to staff. Look at its inventory. Look at displays. Does a light need changing? Is merchandise unpolished? Is it in the wrong showcase?"

Turn and reorder. Reorder fast turners promptly. "Many jewelers reorder only when a vendor calls or at trade shows, because they're bogged down in daily business," notes Terry Ianuale. "But if you neglect merchandise turns, you lose sales. As soon as you see something turning quickly, reorder it!"

A jeweler should reorder fast sellers at least every two weeks. Every two or three days is better. Jeweler Tom Light in Hattiesburg, Miss., for example, is "on the phone [reordering] two or three times a week, especially bread and butter items like four-prong Tiffany settings."

Prompt restocking "maintains the turn rate of—and ensures your inventory dollars are invested in—merchandise that works best for you," says Ianuale. One Northwest jeweler's review, for example, showed gold earrings were selling quickly, thanks to women who worked in nearby offices. She reordered often and was never out of stock. Result: They turned nine times in a year.

While turnover rates differ among stores, "the average overall turn for most jewelry stores is about 0.8," says retail consultant Janice Mack. "If a jeweler stays on top of his or her fast sellers, that can increase up to 2.5 annually in some categories."

Best Sellers
We asked the JCK retail panel the following questions about their best sellers:
When times are tough economically, either locally or nationally, what are your best-selling products and services?
Product/Service% Responding*
Repairs51.5%
Engagement rings/solitaires.31.5
Diamond stud earrings25.4
Wedding bands20.8
Bridal/wedding sets18.8
Resizing, remounts & redesign jewelry17.7
Watches10.8
Gold chains10.0
Appraisals9.2
Watch batteries8.5
What products or services sell more slowly?
Product/Service% Responding*
Big ticket color25.7
High-end large diamonds21.9
High end watches19.0
Large diamond bracelets17.1
Large diamond rings16.2
Large diamonds - stones13.3
High couture type fashion baubles13.3
Big ticket items12.4
Large gold necklaces & bracelets11.4
Large diamond necklaces8.6
* Equals more than 100% due to multiple answers. Source: JCK Retail Panel, February 2002

 

The Four Rs

"Most jewelers' business comes from items in stock less than six months," says Lori Askew of the Vantage Group. "So, merchandise a year old or more is costing you money, based on what you spend to advertise, insure, and display it (including rent). Get your dollars back and reinvest them in profitable inventory." The best ways to do that, she says, are "the four Rs."

Re-merchandise. "If merchandise still has a chance of selling, clean it to make it look fresh and appealing and put on a 'Was/Now' tag," says Askew. "For example, 'Was $1,000, Now $799.' " Instead of using a "clearance" table, display "Was/Now" items with regularly priced merchandise. "When customers see a clearance case, the marked-down prices make them think everything else in the store is expensive," Askew notes. "However, with 'Was/Now' items throughout the store, you have something else to show when they don't find something in their price range, or an item is out of stock."

Redesign. Remove and rework gems in jewelry. "There's a percentage of inventory you can do that with, and it gives you more open-to-buy dollars to work with," says Askew.

Return. Cultivate good relations with vendors so you can exchange merchandise. "Constantly reorder lines that sell well, and a supplier sees you're serious about keeping fast-turning goods in the store," says Askew. "He'll want to remove inventory that doesn't work for you, because he, like you, makes money on your turns."

Reduce. "Hold sales only on old merchandise and base discounts on how long you've had it," says Askew. "For example, 10% off for a year, 15% for two, and so on."

"Never put key items on sale," adds retail consultant Janice Mack. "A sale should only be to reduce inventory and/or get rid of slow or dated merchandisie"

The Big Five

Even as the economy gradually recovers, it's wise to remember the mistakes to avoid when times are slow.

Memo mistakes. Some "get frightened and bring in lots of memo merchandise," notes Terry Ianuale of Scull and Co. "Keep inventory lean and clean. In a store filled with memo, salespeople focus on it rather than the asset merchandise. And even with memo, you still have unsold inventory on which you pay insurance and other costs."

Overreliance on trends. "Many jewelers stock up on the latest trendy fashions" to attract business, notes retail consultant Janice Mack. "That's a knee-jerk [reaction] that puts them deeper into debt, based on a guess [of what might sell] without turning inventory or solidifying their [market] position."

Mississippi jeweler Tom Light warns jewelers who carry popular items to watch for when mass marketers get it. "For example, we did very well with diamond tennis bracelets, especially 'S' link ones, but stopped carrying them when mass marketers started selling 10k versions," he says.

Markdowns. A sale during slow times often covers everything in the store or department. "But if only a small percentage of your inventory drives business, why put it on sale when you can sell it for full margin?" asks Mack. "Stay the course—don't weaken margins. Discount only old, slow-turning merchandise to free cash to use elsewhere in your business."

Succumbing to fear. "People tend to panic in difficult times," notes Light. "They think the market is going to crash, and to save money they cancel orders, don't place orders, or don't restock—and end up on the short end of things they need. They cut the ad budget, which definitely affects sales. And they often cancel showy pieces. But you still need that occasional 3-ct. diamond necklace with lots of melee [because] customers like to see something different, even in tough times."

Buying. Jewelers' biggest mistake in lean times is buying what they like, instead of what customers want, says Canadian jeweler Jeff Buzbuzian. "They see new stuff with a vendor or at a show and say, 'Isn't that nice? We'll take it.' But they've no idea who the customers are for it. They're focused on buying, not selling. They need a clear idea of their customers, their needs, and what they like."

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